Internal Parasites

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Deadeye

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Aug 31, 2020
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Have you tested your water?
No
If I did not test my water...
  1. ...I recognize that I will likely be asked to do a test, and that water tests are critical for solving freshwater health problems.
Do you do water changes?
Yes
What percentage of water do you change?
61-70%
How frequently do you change your water?
Every two weeks
If I do not change my water...
  1. ...I recognize that I will likely be recommended to do a water change, and water changes are critical for preventing future freshwater health problems.
I lost all of my mbuna and now a skunk loach to some sort of internal parasite. Symptoms have been different between fish, but the common one was slowly wasting away and getting more lethargic with rapid breeding, and white stringy poop. Some haven’t shown much of any change win weight, other fish have gotten extremely thin. I’d rather not lose anyone else, and don’t have a qt tank (currently housing 2 ocellaris clowns).
Medicines I have are super ich cure, melafix, cupramine (which is bad for loaches), and prazi pro (probably the best option).
What would be the best treatment option: soaking food, adding it to the tank (could I have a walkthrough there), both?

Also, if I were to lose all my fish, how would I prepare to add fish back? How long would I have to wait?
 
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Think before adding any more fish you’ll definitely have to quarantine. But for the current fish you have I suggest feeding some hex shield. Change ur water changes to weekly.
 
Hex shield finally arrived, and I haven’t lost a fish since originally posting! Hopefully in the next 3 days I can confirm they are parasite free!
 
First of all, separate the deseased fish. Then, I would highly recommend you to try niclosamide for it's treatment.
 
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Moreover, you can find this med in a powder form which is very convenient to use - https://www.niclosam.com/product/niclosamide-powder/. Just mix it with a food, and let fish eat it. After the course of this remedy, the fish should be okay. Also it would be great if you try adding them to the tank. After purchasing your new aquarium, make sure to set it up, add water, substrate and plants and allow it to settle for at least 1-2 days before adding fish.
 
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Thanks for the info! Haven’t heard of this particular med.
I have levamisole, hex shield, and metroplex on hand.
I had lost all of the diseased fish back in March, and the rest (some loaches) remained unaffected for months.
The tank had been converted to a planted puffer tank.
 
I have had to deal with wasting disease over the years. I now start with PraziPro and if that is too mild, I will turn to Flubendazole.

The thing about wasting is until it becomes clear that is the issue, fish will eat and behave nornally. By the time it is clear they are wasting thay will usually stop eating and become lethargic and hide. At this stae the odds of curing a fish are very low. The poop is a good clue and should be easier to spot.

if you can pickup on clear poop the odds are the fish is still eating and this means you can dose meds in the good. they are normally more effective that way.

Flubendazole is useful for controlling intestinal parasites, especially most of the protozoa, some nematodes and gill flukes. Flubendazole is active through adsorption into the fish’s skin and gills. The drug does not have to be eaten to be effective. This makes the drug useful for treating fishes which have quit eating due to irritation from infection of the throat and gut.

The above is from the site where I purchase the med. http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/ItemsForSale.html
 
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