Is this an over the tank wet/dry? Enough for my setup?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

ronald021

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 19, 2008
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TJ
I went from an average load to a heavy load 125g tank in the recent months and have no money for canister filter. Currently running a whisper HOB with only a sponge (been running this for 15+ years). Recently, I did a diy filter using a 500g powerhead to send water up through a spray bar on top of the tank into a narrow, but 3ft long, drip tray on top of the aquarium. On top of the drip tray is the blue/white filter floss and right under this floss is another white floss. In the future I might add some biomedia under the blue/white floss. The drip tray drips right into the tank. I plan on adding an AC110. So my question is... Do you guys think this filter set up is adequate to be called a wet dry? The biomedia will never be submerged in water as the bottom drips quickly enough into the tank. Secondly, is the filter design itself a strong filter? And lastly, do you guys this my whisper hob, this filter setup, and possibly an AC110 enough?

~I have a 12in arowo, 18 2-3in blood parrots, 1 8in FH, and 1 6in giant guorami. The recent additions are the 18 blood parrots. My setup for years have only been everything mentioned but only 3 blood parrots instead of 18. I added 15 more to prevent arowo from fighting and it seems to be working for 2months now.
 
Well, it's better than what you were running. I would suggest a larger system bio-media tray to help handle anything your growing stock will produce. It takes about 2.2 gallons of bio-media to filter 100 gallons of aquarium. If you experience compression blockages in your bio-media, I'd suggest switching to floor buffer stripper pads. They're used in pond filtration and can withstand heavy flows with little compression. You're pretty much in there for a turn-over rate of 3-5 times the tank's volume per hour. I'd add an aerating powerhead to the tank itself to offset O2 losses to your bio-media.
 
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