Just installed my first FX5

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

aloys

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Feb 27, 2009
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so i've wanted to try a canister filter for a while now and i finally bit the bullet and got an FX5, actually got it from rkc772. So it came today and everything was all there brand new so thanks again to rkc772.

So its set up on a 75 gallon tank right now. and one day will eventually become part of filtration for a larger tank. A few questions now that it is up and running.

First, the damn thing is huge! and i couldnt fit it in the opening of my tank to go straight under the tank. There was no way to get it directly under the tank without a lot of work. so the canister is just directly next to the tank. It says in the manual that for best performance it should be directly under the tank. Is this going to be a problem, will there be a difference? Is it going to reduce the life of the filter?

Next, it came with carbon packs, ammonia remover packs, ceramic rings and a bunch of pads. I am not using the carbon and ammonia remover currently, should i use them? I know a lot of people on here dont use carbon at all.

Thanks for the help!
 
Congrats! I personally would fill the baskets with seachem matrix and/or whatever bio media they gave you. You can also save room for Carbon its great for water polishing but definitely not necessary but if you got it might as well use it. I would recommend against using the ammonia remover packs however.
I have heard different responses about the fine filter pads and they supposedly can cause micro bubbles ive never used them but that seems to be the feedback so far.
 
aloys;3406871; said:
anyone know if having the canister on the side of the tank will hurt it in the long run?


This will cause no problems what so ever...

The important part is it is a a tleast a certain distance below the tank... doesn't matter if it is directly under or next to... as long as it is lower than...

PS - I would not use the ammonia remover... as your Beneficial Bacteria will remove the ammonia. Relying on inserts or additives just causes instability if/when you fail to change them, add them, etc on time...
 
Just make sure to have as little twists and turns in the tubing if you can.

Also, I found that the circular white polishing pads worked well for collecting stuff (put it in the very top) and with the ceramic rings and foam pads, doesn't remove any bb when replacing. I personally just buy huge rolls of the same kinda crap for like 6 bucks instead of buying the actual pads, and just cut them to size. I replace it once every 2 weeks or so.

I used the carbon packets that came with the filter when I got it, and have noticed no change at all when I ran out and quit using them.
 
nc_nutcase;3406931; said:
This will cause no problems what so ever...

The important part is it is a a tleast a certain distance below the tank... doesn't matter if it is directly under or next to... as long as it is lower than...

What if putting it next to the tank or under nether but off center means you have to make one of the hoses longer than the other, will that be ok? Does it matter which one, in vs out, is longer?
 
You can put the output and intake on the same side of the tank. Just angle it away from the intake, it will circulate fine.

I would fill the rest with more biomedia. Seachem matrix or pond matrix is the cheapest I've seen, you can get 20 liters of pond matrix for $92 shipped. Obviously it wouldn't all fit in the filter though.

Or you can put bioballs or similar media in the remaining space, you've got more than enough filtration and that should work fine.
 
no problems with the filter on the side. Manufacturers always recommend placement of their cannister filters under the tank to minimize hose length. The shorter the hose, the more flow rate is produced. An extra foot or two of hose wont affect your flow rate too much.
 
I am not using the carbon and ammonia remover currently, should i use them?

No don't use the carbon unless you are trying to remove meds, tannins etc from the water. Don't use the ammonia remover either however keep them both handy incase they are needed in the future. I would just pack out all the tray's with bio media.
 
Nothing but bio media in my FX5, however I used substrate pro II and it falls thru the mesh in the buckets so I had to put some bonded filter pad in the bottom of the bottom tray to keep it from getting to the impeller. It didnt hurt flow much if at all. I would suggest the Fluval bio rings, as thats what I will be makeing the slow switch too.
 
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