Leveling a 110g Tank

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midnightkiss

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jun 6, 2010
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Long Beach
Hey guys,

So I got a new 110g setup. I'm in the second story of an apartment complex. I got the tank setup along a wall near a corner to help with supporting the weight. There's maybe 5 gallons of water in there and you can visible see it on one side of the tank and because of the apartment being sloped, it is dry on the opposite side. So obviously this needs to be corrected. I've read as much as I can find out level out a tank.

I bought shims yesterday and put them along the width of the stand on the side it sloping towards. I even double upped a couple and this really did not make a dent in leveling out the tank.

Do you guys have any suggestions? The next thing I was going to try was putting the stand completely on a thick piece of plywood and then using shims if it still isn't level.

Let me know what you guys think, thanks.
 
Wow. Bad tilt! I've had this, too, upstairs in this old, old house. Try to find long pieces of lumber that raise the corner to the correct height. Start with the worst corner and get the right thickness in there. From what you've said, there could be a soft spot in your floor (dangerous as heck! Warning, warning!) and adding shims just pushes the floor down. If this is the case, that spot should not host a tank. However, if we just need thicker shims and adding them does in fact work solidly (and holds as you add water, without flexing the floor), then you need to do your dangdest to support the other two corners (the ones that aren't as high or low as your problem corners). You need to support all four corners as evenly as possible to prevent the tank from twisting when full.
 
Your objective is to have the tank level when full of water. This is going to cost you about 110 gallons of tap water, so I reccomend you first take the trouble to get a hose setup for water changing that hooks to a faucet (such as the hose and valve setup called a "Python"). Otherwise, the water buckets will get tiresome.

Fill the tank almost up, stop when the water level contacts the top frame in one corner. Note how it slopes both side to side and back to front. One of the four corners of the tank will have the lowest water level (or said differently, that corner of the tank is highest), that is the one corner that will have no shim. Note the exact measurement from the water level to the top edge of the top frame, and record it. In the other 3 corners, measure the distance from the water line to the top frame edge, then subtract that corner's measurement from the dimension you just recorded from the highest corner - the remainder is the same as the shim needed for that corner.

Now drain the tank using the Python. Cut and install the three shims. Refill the tank with decor, substrate (gravel), and equipment. Install the remaining equipment and start the water cycling process.
 
Your objective is to have the tank level when full of water. This is going to cost you about 110 gallons of tap water, so I reccomend you first take the trouble to get a hose setup for water changing that hooks to a faucet (such as the hose and valve setup called a "Python").

Fill the tank almost up, stop when the water level contacts the top frame in one corner. Note how it slopes both side to side and back to front. One of the four corners of the tank will have the lowest water level (or said differently, that corner of the tank is highest), that is the one corner that will have no shim. Note the exact measurement from the water level to the top frame, and record it. In the other 3 corners, measure the distance from the water line to the top frame, then subtract that corner's measurement from the dimension you just recorded from the highest corner - the remainder is the same as the shim needed for that corner.

Now drain the tank using the Python. Cut and install the three shims. Refill the tank with decor, substrate (gravel), and equipment. Install the remaining equipment and start the water cycling process.
Click to expand...
+1 Better said, better said.
 
Rather than filling the tank completely with water just use a 4 foot level and add shims as needed.

IMO filling it and draining it would take more time and effort than needed.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. This isn't my first tank as I have a 35 gallon in my place already that isn't completely level but pretty close.

I don't mind filling it up fully as I've read you should in order to get the carpet to compress and then you can level it again. I don't believe there's any softspots, I just think the size of the apartment and no supporting posts in the middle causes it to slope there over time.

I already picked up some clear plastic tubing and had also got a garden hose but didn't like it very much for siphoning since I couldn't see if the water was coming. Unfortunately non of the faucets have grooves so I'll have to figure out a way to attach hosing to avoid the 20 buckets or so of water.

So you guys don't think I'll need a piece of wood under the stand? Think it might help to do it anyways?

Thanks
 
I guess you could use whatever you want if it's solid enough. I've always used wood.
 
knifegill;4220408; said:
You need to support all four corners as evenly as possible to prevent the tank from twisting when full.
Click to expand...

You need to support more than the 4 corners!

If you only support the 4 corners... then that creates the potential for the center to sag which can bow the bottom pane of glass and create dangerous torque on the front and sides...

We have all seen pictures of tanks supported only on the corners, but a we are talking a 110 gal here...


I strongly suggest... with the tank empty (or with very little water)... shim the 4 corners to get it level... then add shims along the full length of the entire perimeter.
 
Thanks guys, I'm going to stop by HD today and see if I can get the right adapter for the faucet.

@NC, thanks for the reminder. Just doing the four corners would defeat the purpose of having a flat bottom. I think I may just pick up a sheet of wood at least 3/4" to 1" thick and place that under the stand. Should be easier to then put any shims between the actual stand and the piece of wood. Otherwise I feel the shims are just going to compress the carpet more than raising the side of the tank. The carpet is semi-thick.
 
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