Living suitable room tank stand - 125 Gallon

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

SkiTrent

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Mar 31, 2010
22
0
0
Denver, CO
First, I wanted to say I based my build almost solely off of this thread: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55623&highlight=Tank+Stand+Design+8%27x2.5%27x2%27+tank

This has been about 3 months in the making working many nights and weekends. To make it more difficult, this was done with only a hand circular saw and a multi-tool. I HIGHLY recomend a table saw to complete this build.

Materials:
~8 2x4s ($2-3 each)
2 Sheets of 3/4" ply (~ $15 bucks a sheet)
2 sheets 1/2" Red Oak Ply (~$60 bucks a sheet)
Corner molding (~$1.5 a foot)
Base molding ($3 bucks a foot)
Water based stain - General Finishes ($15 a pint)
Minwax Wipe on poly (~13)
Plywood blade ($15) - I highly recommend buying a nice blade to cut the veneer ply
Wood Glue ($2)
Liquid Nails (2 tubes ~$7)
Finishing nails (~$5)
Nail punch (~$5)
Stainable wood Filler (~$8)​

Total: ~250 or so.

Now I could have purchased a stand online for this price or cheaper, but this stand can hold more than enough weight and it also allows you to customize.


Now the build:

The first thing that has to be done it determine exact design. I used the thread above, but it was for a much larger thank and thus I had to modify.
View attachment 765317

You need to determine desired height, width and customization to the sub structure. As in my case, I should have figured out my sump/refugium prior to the build. I know have to find a tank to fit. Also, please keep in mind any molding you add, like the molding hiding the plastic on the glass tank ended up adding an extra inch of gap for my tank that was not desired.

Begin cutting and dry fitting:

All pieces are laid out for dry run of assembly
TankStand2.jpg

I did screw key pieces together for dry assembly
TankStand3.jpg


Note: I used overlap joints as all other stinger joints would have been impossible for me to do with my tools in a timely manner.

Once you have it fit and all pieces cut, begin assembly. I would recommend drilling all holes for screws to avoid any splitting. Also, at this stage, I was adding liquid nails to almost ALL joints as my cuts were not exact and this filling the gaps as well as strengthened the stand:

Note some minor splitting. I learned my lesson quick.
TankStand7.jpg

Filled it with wood glue and put another screw in.
TankStand6.jpg

More fittings:
TankStand9.JPG
TankStand10.JPG

Complete and waiting for the 2 tubes of liquid nails to dry...
TankStand8.jpg
TankStand11.JPG
TankStand12.JPG


Once you are completely happy with the frame, it is time to begin the veneer plywood. Here is when a table saw REALLY would have helped.

Notice gaps:
TankStand14.JPG

The gap between the front and frame on top i filled with clear drying caulking:
TankStand15.JPG

Back of stand. This was difficult to cut exactly straight:
TankStand16.JPG

Notice here that the side plywood is exposed to the front. In hindsight I would have overlapped the front over the side panel, but it really doesn't matter as we want molding on the sides. Veneer plywood has a tendency to chip/flake off at corners easily:
TankStand17.JPG

Filling in the gaps in the installed ply (NOTE: I didn't take any photos of the adding of the top ply or lower ply. I used the 3/4" ply for this application prior to the addition of the veneer ply):
TankStand18.JPG

At this point, you need to have all of your finishing nails sunk and time to apply wood filler (Make sure you get stainable filler):
TankStand19.JPG

Some sloppy cutting lead to some filling of gaps with filler as well:
TankStand20.JPG

I wish i was a little more clean with the filler as it does not stain as well as the wood grain. One regret.

One more clean filler shot:
TankStand21.JPG

Profile shot of the molding to hide the plastic at the bottom of the tank. I just used extra veneer ply for the molding and then nailed on a small red oak cap.
TankStand22.JPG

Time for a glass of wine as this thing was actually looking like a real stand!
TankStand24.JPG
TankStand23.JPG


Time to bite the bullet and start painting:

Sand everything with a 100 grit sand paper and I did have to refill/sink some nails where the wood filler was not to my satisfaction. Do not sand too much as the veneer is very thin.

I went with black for the top and inside. The reason for this is I want the middle section of the stand to house another 3 gallon tank that will house only plants. This will be a part of the filtration at some point.
TankStand26.jpg
TankStand25.JPG

And now staining:
View attachment TankStand27.JPG

Example of wood filler not staining as desired...
TankStand28.JPG

Corner molding I did not drill and thus got a crack.. Mistake.. BUT the filler did well in this case.
TankStand29.JPG

Now just place the tank on the stand. Easier said than done!
TankStand30.JPG
TankStand.jpg




Let me know what you all think!

TankStand2.jpg

TankStand3.jpg

TankStand6.jpg

TankStand7.jpg

TankStand8.jpg

TankStand9.JPG

TankStand10.JPG

TankStand11.JPG

TankStand12.JPG

TankStand14.JPG

TankStand15.JPG

TankStand16.JPG

TankStand17.JPG

TankStand18.JPG

TankStand19.JPG

TankStand20.JPG

TankStand21.JPG

TankStand22.JPG

TankStand23.JPG

TankStand24.JPG

TankStand25.JPG

TankStand26.jpg

TankStand28.JPG

TankStand29.JPG

TankStand30.JPG

TankStand.jpg
 
Very nice how long did it take to get set up and everything?
 
Nice!
I am always being told that the top of the stand needs to be open for moisture reasons. Is this true?

I am not sure why the stand would need to be open. I am sure the his will need to be vented.

I had this tank on my bedroom dresser for 4 years and it had no issues. It was faded by the sun in the area the tank didn't sit. It was time for the dresser to be used as a dresser.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com