Looking for ideas and help to plumb my 300 gal

Jacob1320

Exodon
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2019
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Laguna Niguel
Hey guys I just picked up a 300 gallon
And am thinking of ways to hook up filtration

I’ve kicked around a few ideas and In the end think I will go with a 60-75 gallon sump
My question is how should I plumb it
The tank has 10 holes drilled in it and I wanna know if and how I could use them

4 holes are 1 3/4 in the back panel slightly drilled below the half way mark
And 4 holes on the bottom panel 1 3/4

The last two holes are in the right side of tank they are 1 1/8
And are almost at the top of the tank
Do anyone have a idea on how this was plumed b4 and how I could use the holes
If not I can always cap them off
I’ll attach some pics

I’ve been reading thru threads and feel
I’ve picked up some good Info but keep scratching my head at all the holes and how I could plug it so I won’t overflow if I lose power
Thanks

F5440884-D00A-47D3-BA1E-66AD91A39FBB.jpeg

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2A98A036-E37A-4800-BAF2-E84049DD41EB.jpeg

F87FBFCA-23EC-42EC-BA85-CB422ADB34A8.jpeg

5D0E9EE9-D972-4E39-A977-CAA5EC44DFA9.jpeg

4D8F2AB1-F7F7-4D24-ADDC-58D5D41B1930.jpeg
 

Ulu

Potamotrygon
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Dec 13, 2018
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Appears to me that the bottom holes are for stand pipe drains, the halfway up holes in the back are for water changing and the holes near the top of the tank are for the pump return.

One or more of those bottom holes might have been an emergency bottom drain.
 

Jacob1320

Exodon
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2019
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When you say stand pipe drains
Is that a pipe coming up from the bulkhead/hole to the top of water level with a strainer over ?

If so I was worried about pipes in the center of the tanks my worry was fish smashing into them or me accidently breaking them
 

Jacob1320

Exodon
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Apr 12, 2019
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So I looked up stand pipes and I see what your talking about
So looks like if I use the holes I will have to have pipes running up the center of the tank
I’m not really thrilled about that
If that’s they case I may consider capping off the holes and running 3 fx6
It’s starting to feel
Like less of a head ache
 

Ulu

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Dec 13, 2018
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I am a standpipe rookie. I just did my first standpipe in 45 years of tanks. It elbows into the corner of the tank with an inverted bell strainer, and actually fits just so (I flat sanded the bell) that my big Oscar can never smash it loose. That is the key: top and bottom attachment of pipes.

Once I got the bulkhead tight it was pretty cool. But I had seepage for a couple days until I fixed it. Everybody warned not to overtighten the nut. I undertightened it LOL.

I didn't put enough teflon tape on the union, and it seeped as well. Easy fix. I only have to shut off the pump and I can take off the valve.

BUT, inspect any unions you buy for smooth sealing surfaces. I bought a sched 80 1.5" union and glued it to my $60 valve. Then it leaked, and I had to remove it and flat-sand the surface 3 times (grits) with that huge valve still attached! now it's fine, but unscrew those when you buy them and check the quality.

If you want bottom vacuum poop collection, you can invert a full-height capped pipe over the standpipe, and hang it at the top. This will be quiet too, but sucks up sand, so gravel substrate or some barricade to the sand is needed.

There are other ways to plumb it up but only if you're interested in a sump.

If canisters are your thing, then just glue plates over all the holes.

I'm a tinkerer, so plumbing is a hobby of sorts.
 

Jacob1320

Exodon
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2019
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87
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Laguna Niguel
I’ve plumbed a few wet drys years back but they where pretyy simple and not this large
My concern is overflowing if power goes out
And In proper / inaquate flow
I think I’m shooting for 10x exchange rate
Pretty sure for flow I’ll need between 2500-3000gph

I like to tinker but I hate to Diy on a project spend money only for it to fail and be a waste (ever happen )
Yes I know this all falls on me so I blame no one but me when stuff goes wrong
But trying to figure out if spending the extra cash on plug and play cansister filters would be worth it for the convenience vs attempting to plumb my own sump
 

Ulu

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Dec 13, 2018
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I set things up so the sump pump looses suction just before the tank overfills & floods my house.
The sump isn't normally over 1/2 full, & will contain any water that drains down if the pump stops.
I use bleed holes to prevent any backsiphon, and they aid surface agitation a bit.
Heaters are in my sump to isolate them from big fish, and from view.

You can have bottom drains yet put the standpipe behind the tank too.

bdsump.jpg

I'm having serious tank envy. My newest is only 125 g, and it's still empty too.
 

Jacob1320

Exodon
MFK Member
Apr 12, 2019
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87
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Laguna Niguel
Ok your picture make its very clear now!
I understand this a lot more now!
Thank you!!
I do agree a sump will be best for maintenance and upkeep
I’m just really itching to get this monster filled and going. But don’t want to
Do it twice I wanted a 240 and settled on the 300 they fit nice in a garage
 
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Ulu

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Dec 13, 2018
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There's lots of plumbing advice to read up on here.

I don't like PVC elbows. I like sweeping bends (sweeps)
But not as easy to find.
Grey sched 80 PVC sweeps are used for wiring conduit and they work well.
Much less restriction. I use PVC hose as well.
 

Ulu

Potamotrygon
MFK Member
Dec 13, 2018
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The Sunny San Joaquin
I think the drains had two valves like this. The running drain, and the WC drain.
There was probably an emergency drain valve too, on the lateral under the tank.
I didn't draw that one.

drain300.jpg
 
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