Marbled pim gill curl help

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T

tyjo1334

Gambusia
MFK Member
Oct 13, 2009
855
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around the corner from the LFS
Noticed this yesterday and today I did a 40% WC as well as a full cleaning of both FX5 filters including adding 3 new outer sponges, a fine filter pad and a new box of media to each of the 2 fx5's I have running. I also added additional aeration as well. What else can I do? All perimeters seem ok. 7.4 PH, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrate, 0 nitrite, 1.0-1.5 phosphate. Any recommendations? Also he has a gash on his face I planned on treating with 35%-40% WC every other day for the next 10 days and possibly some melafix.


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Oh woops sorry about that I read your readings wrong. I thought the phosphate readings was actually your nitrite readings. My bad.

Sorry

But anyway if your parameters are that perfect hopefully the curl will heal on its own. Ive heard on mfk that provided the curl is not really bad it should heal on its own if given good water quality. And i must say yours is exceptional. Good job.
 
Also just to add I had a bad issue with ammonia about 10 days ago and I added fluval ammonia remover to my filter and just removed it yesterday. I only feed my fish twice in the past 8-9 days and both times they regurgitated their food within 18-24 hours after they consumed it, I don't know why. But now I cleaned EVERYTHING in the tank/filters etc. so there should be no more issues with water perimeters or my fish not being able to keep down their food.


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Runitis said:
I'm pretty sure 0 nitrite is bad. You should always have some. (I forget if its nitrate or nitrite ...)

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It's actually nitrate which is the final product of the nitrogen cycle. It is not that it is extremely harmful, more that it is almost impossible to have zero nitrate in an established tank. Most likely the test kit is outdated or being used incorrectly. If using the API master test kit you have to shake the second nitrate bottle extremely well before using, otherwise the reagents wont react and you'll get a reading of zero every time.
 
Are you sure with the filter cleanings you have not done more bad than good and destroyed some of the beneficial bacteria colonies? I'd keep a very close tab on water tests now - NH3 and NO2.

-- Gill curl usually does not occur because of short-term bad water. It happens from long-term bad water.

-- Bad does not only mean NH3 or NO2 or NO3 or pH, but also temperature, oxygen concentration, may be even hardness or salinity, trace heavy/toxic metals, organic contaminants, like perticudes, herbicides, detergents, lubricants, tar, silicon with anti-mold additives, etc.

-- Also, gill parasites like flukes and ich can cause it.

-- It probably never happens solely from other stresses, like not having enough room to excersize and swim around or harassing tank mates, but these may contribute to poor health and hence enable deseases and disorders and weaknesses.

Also, at least some of the gill curl cases are attributed to genetic/inherited.

Do make sure you are using a good test kit (not strips), that it is not expired, and that you are using it correctly.
 
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