Basic Care of the Inland Bearded Dragon
Pagona vitticeps
Bearded Dragons are very docile creatures, often referred to as the dogs of the Herpetology world. I believe it is even safe to say that they are the best pet reptile for beginners. Of course, they have to be handled a lot to stay that way, males more so than females. This profile is meant to be used as a guide for new keepers. Purchasing a book, such as The Bearded Dragon Manual by Philippe De Vosjoli, is recommended for keepers interested in breeding and for obtaining in-depth information on common diseases and injuries.
Housing:
The enclosure should be no smaller than 36" by 18", the size of a standard 40 gallon breeder, for a single adult or pair. Two females may be housed together but never two males. It is also advisable that males and females not be housed together permanently, but only for a short time to mate, and only if proper care can be given to the incubation and handling of young. If you do not intend to breed your Bearded Dragon, do not mix genders. The enclosure must be large enough to establish a proper heat gradient with the necessary equipment such as a slate basking rock and driftwood perch. I recommend ReptiSand to use as substrate, which is safe for all Bearded Dragons. However, adults may be kept on Play Sand, which can be purchased at any home improvement store. Juveniles should not be kept on the latter due to the larger grain size, which can lead to impaction if the substrate is ingested. The enclosure must be sifted every day for feces and other detritus.
Lighting:
Bearded Dragons require both UVA and UVB lighting in order to properly metabolize food. Because of this, two light sources are needed. I recommend the brand Exo-Terra Repti Glo 8.0 for use as a full-spectrum light. Place the driftwood perch below this fluorescent bulb. The animal must be able to bask as needed. Because the ultraviolet rays cannot penetrate much further than 8 to 10” from the light source, the Dragon must be able to get within that range without actually being able to come into contact with the bulb. The basking heat spot must stay within a daytime range of around 105 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. A simple halogen spot light and ceramic dome fixture purchased from a home improvement store will suffice. The wattage and spacing of the bulb will vary depending on the ambient temperature, but generally a 65 watt bulb spaced about 15 to 18” above the substrate will be a good place to start. Situating the slate basking rock under the light will allow the animal to warm its belly on the absorbed heat. The cold side of the cage should be allowed to reach room temperature. About twelve hours of daylight is advised, unless you plan on breeding your Dragons. If that is the case, then the natural brumation cycle should be followed. This involves longer daytime hours in the summer followed by shorter days during the winter months. Either way, I recommend purchasing a digital timer to control the light schedule. This will keep the light schedule constant. No night time heat source is required if the ambient temperature does not drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Food and Water:
Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, which means that they consume both vegetable and animal matter. Offer fresh greens cut into bite-sized pieces every day. In general, it is a good idea to avoid using anything that contains the word "lettuce" in the name, as these greens are generally devoid of nutritional value. I recommend turnip tops, mustard greens, dandelion greens, and collard greens. All greens should be sprinkled with a 50/50 mix of Repti-Cal and HerptiVite to ensure proper vitamin and calcium intake. For insects, offer juveniles both crickets and small to medium superworms. Mealworms should be avoided due to the high chitin content in the exoskeleton, which can lead to impaction. The crickets must be no larger than the space between the Dragon’s eyes in order to prevent chocking. Crickets should be offered once a day while a dish of superworms should be available at all times. The dish should be shallow enough to allow the Dragon access, while at the same time deep enough to keep the superworms from escaping. This allows the animal to eat at its leisure. Crickets are never to be left in the habitat for extended periods of time. It is not uncommon to see a cricket nibbling on a Dragon’s tail. Adults can be fed large superworms along with the same assortment of greens listed above. Crickets may be used as a treat. As they age, Dragons generally begin to prefer greens over insects.
Most Dragons will not drink from standing water. They must be misted at least once a day with dechlorinated room temperature water while juveniles should be misted at least twice. When misting, use a setting that simulates rain. Bearded Dragons will drink the droplets from each other and their surroundings. Spray until your animal stops lapping up the water. Animals that eat primarily insects tend to drink more than individuals that get a lot of the needed moisture from the greens that are consumed. A water dish must be available at all times and kept very clean. Your animal may not drink from it, but it will still enjoy wallowing in it, especially when shedding. Bearded Dragons should also be allowed to soak once a week for about ten minutes in belly-deep warm water.
General Care:
Dragons change their color very quickly and frequently based on mood. Excited Dragons will be very bright, and mature males and females will even flare a black beard that will fade when they calm again. A healthy Dragon will have a clean, cream-colored stomach. A stressed Dragon, however, will have noticeable blotches in a pattern on the underside.
A good way of keeping track of how your Dragon is fairing health wise is to keep a diary of weights. I use a gram scale that can be purchased at any office supply store to weigh mine. Adults should be weighed weekly and juveniles every other day. Weighing regularly will tell you if your Dragon is eating enough. If your Dragon starts to lose weight, you will know before the problem gets severe so it can be addressed and rectified. For breeding purposes, weighing regularly will tell you if a juvenile needs to be separated if it isn't gaining as fast as its cage mates.
He also likes to play with his food 
