No it is a simple back flush just like a pool sand filter. Has the same vavle. I also have two ball valve to direct flow around the cartridge filter so when I am back washing and charging. And yes I love the flex pipe PVC. I don't want to direct water from the main pump because with all the back pressure it would decrease my flow to much.Three months without any prefiltration is phenomenal IMHO! Did changing your DE involve opening or taking apart the filter, or is it simply a backflush-type of operation? Dang...I want one of these things!
Wow...you do like PVC and plumbing, don't you? The old Vortex DE filters were easy to charge/re-charge by doing exactly as you stated, i.e. put intake and output tubes into a small container of water and then add the DE to that, let it coat the bag/screen and then return the two tubes to the tank being cleaned. Your nice set-up could be augmented with a set of valves and a bypass to allow you to do the same thing without doing anything other than re-directing the flow as required to charge the DE.
Also, if you don't want to run a separate pump, why not divert all or part of the flow from one of your existing pumps through the DE filter, plumbing it inline with and downstream of your existing filtration? No extra pump, just more effective filtration with the one you already have.
Monster Diatomaceous Earth (DE) filter!
- Thread starter Oughtsix
- Start date
What is a air lift with multiple inflows? The filter socks work just clogged to fast. I have over 7400GPH that's over 16 time the flow and 5 times the fish so it will just clog way faster. I am using two 5 gallon buckets with holes drilled in them and sponges for the macanical. And I still can't get more then 3 days out of them. I even run filter floss in a big reactor to try and polish the water but there is just to much waste. That's why I'm hoping a pool filter will work better.
I have never seenthem before. I just looked them up. Do you have any pictures of your setup? You have an air stone under them?
Multiple inflow, is a 48" long pvc pipe that has a hole every 4 inches for the first 12" then every 3 inches 12-24" every 2" 24-36, every 1" 36 to 48, with the drilled hole matched to your pumps GPH.
It provides an flow in one direction, and will push waste towards the side with the least number of holes. Towards the overflow, Herbie, suction to sump.
I use one top mounted, with right to left flow, assisted with a wave maker on the lower right hand corner.
It provides an flow in one direction, and will push waste towards the side with the least number of holes. Towards the overflow, Herbie, suction to sump.
I use one top mounted, with right to left flow, assisted with a wave maker on the lower right hand corner.
A 2" airlift sucks most of the heavy wastes over the corner overflow wier, into the sump.
My first stage is, a wedge wire sieve, " still under construction " $400.00 price tag....
So some times I will use an improvised 200 micron mesh, in the picture. When cleaning or flushing the coral heads...
Typically I use a wedge of 1/8 hole very porous gutter foam, $5.00 48"×6" from Lowes.
This gets cleaned about once a week.
From there the water goes strait into a 24" x 16" upflow algea scrubber, with 60 watts to 100 watts of submerged lights.
My pump is mounted in my basement, yes I have 250 gallons of water on a second floor, lots of steel support.
In the basement I use 55 gallon drums, which cycles water on a closed loop at low flow, which I can isolate, dump and refill for water changes.
Then a final filter sock 7" x 16" with a 1" thick poly floss liner with a pvc coupler hot glued for a good seal. Which is inside a 200 micron nylon mesh 7x 16 sock. I can usually go 2 weeks on one filter sock. I have space for two, but one is sufficient.
I custom built my 90 gallon sump. The other half has grow out tanks, aka Jail, and a biochar media .
I have no substrate, just tiles that look like sand, and have 300 watts of liquid cooled LED. that grow alot of algea, the fish feed on.
It is also a coed tank, were the pecking order is sorted out among the fry that avoid the synod cats, and the current tank boss.
My first stage is, a wedge wire sieve, " still under construction " $400.00 price tag....
So some times I will use an improvised 200 micron mesh, in the picture. When cleaning or flushing the coral heads...
Typically I use a wedge of 1/8 hole very porous gutter foam, $5.00 48"×6" from Lowes.
This gets cleaned about once a week.
From there the water goes strait into a 24" x 16" upflow algea scrubber, with 60 watts to 100 watts of submerged lights.
My pump is mounted in my basement, yes I have 250 gallons of water on a second floor, lots of steel support.
In the basement I use 55 gallon drums, which cycles water on a closed loop at low flow, which I can isolate, dump and refill for water changes.
Then a final filter sock 7" x 16" with a 1" thick poly floss liner with a pvc coupler hot glued for a good seal. Which is inside a 200 micron nylon mesh 7x 16 sock. I can usually go 2 weeks on one filter sock. I have space for two, but one is sufficient.
I custom built my 90 gallon sump. The other half has grow out tanks, aka Jail, and a biochar media .
I have no substrate, just tiles that look like sand, and have 300 watts of liquid cooled LED. that grow alot of algea, the fish feed on.
It is also a coed tank, were the pecking order is sorted out among the fry that avoid the synod cats, and the current tank boss.
I have used Jack’s Magic and it seems to need regeneration more often. It does do a good job and is reportedly safe for fish.
