My first DIY sump attempt - failing.

[cenecker]

Okay y'all I'm confused - I'm trying to get a sump system working on my 60 gal and I'm having big problems.

I'll describe my set-up and please don't laugh - I'm trying to make it work with what I've got for my own amusement

the 60 gal has a tube running down to a 20 gal aquarium, and the water just siphons down. Now the intake end of a fluval 404 w/ no media in it (scored that for $30) is in the 20 gal and then the outlet just goes up and back into the 60 gal.

I hope that's understandable - I'm not artistically inclined enough to draw a picture

The problem I'm having is that I can't seem to get the overflow and the return to equalize flow rates. - there is a valve on the overflow side and no matter how much I adjust it back and forth - either the tank or the sump starts overflowing...how the heck do I get them to both level out?

I know I should probably have on of those hang-on overflows - but I really can't see how that would make a difference.

so that's that - please help me out. BTW if I happen to be asking really dumb questions - please don't be too harsh in calling me an idiot. I'm just a newbie screwing around with things I REALLY don't understand.

 

[Miles]

Understandable..

If you are trying to use a tube to syphon, then you will never match the flows properly. If you use a hang on back overflow box, they are design'ed to only 'overflow' the same amount of water that is being put into the tank. Yes, there is a siphoning tube in an overflow box to siphon it from the interior box to the exterior box, but then the outlet of the exterior box only works with gravity. The reason for the design of the overflow box is you can only siphon water from the interior box to the exterior box if your water level remains consistant. If it's inconsistant (power outage), the siphon breaks, and you're tanks do not flood.

You might want to try to work with a bigger sump if at all possible, it will always help that 'overflow' problems, and give you some extra room to work with.

To put it in perspective, let Gravity do the overflowing, not the siphon.

 

[cenecker]

hhhhhhmmmmm...okay I thought the overflow was what I was missing - I just couldn't grasp the physics of WHY. Thanks a lot for spelling it out for me.

I've got an old whisper 30 power filter w/ a burnt out motor, I think I'll take a crack at converting that into an overflow (continuing with my "build a sump system out of what you already have" challenge).

When i find time to do that I'll take another crack at the sump system - then i'll be back telling you why it didn't work that time - LOL.

but seriously thank you very much for your help. I'm a very mechincally inclined person but for some reason I just can't wrap my head around how sump systems work, so I really appreciate advice.

 

[Loubard]

Very nice, I never had problems but I do understand the hole overflow/return system now, thanks!

 

[D4MI4N]

Very helpful, thanks!

 

[Miles]

The reason you would use an overflow box, instead of trying to make your own, is so that you could match Gallon Per Hour rates.. The overflow boxes are specifically designed to allow a certain amount of water to syphon, and then naturally drain into the sump. The return pump from your sump back into your tank can then be matched with the appropriate size of overflow box.

If you have an adjustable canister, it could work temporarily.. but remember, it will get clogged over time (even with no media) and the GPH rate will slow down.. This will cause your overflow box to not fill fast enough, which will cause the siphon to break, and no water will enter the exterior overflow box..


If you have a return pump with a pre-filter or 'baffles' (usually plexiglass dividers used to break up tiny air bubbles).. the return pump will stay consistant..

 

[I3u11he4d]

it might be worth the 60 or 70 dollars for a overflow that has a rated gph.but look at this and see if it helps.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_overflow.php