I've been reading some recent threads on overflows and some considerations on the right one, which lead me to think of my own recent situation and what I eventually did to correct it. I included some snapshots to help give you an idea, (albeit not the greatest shots)
Background: I have a peninsula style tank so I have an internal overflow at one end of the tank and holes drilled, etc. by the tank builder. The overall wall is roughly 30" (w) x 28" (h) with teeth at the top for overflow and skimming. With this design, my tank water level is essentially determined by the teeth height (which in turn determines how the rate that water could overflow) and the return rate of my pump. Furthering my challenge was 6” (w) x 28’ (h) of overflow was sectioned off to create a dry chamber so that I can run wiring through a PVC pipe. So my functional overflow size is actually 24” (w) x 28” (h), to be more accurate.
Problem: When my DC return pump was turned up to the level that I wanted for sufficient turnover and flow, the overflow Could not keep up. Well, it actually kept up in terms of the flow, however the water would rise to a point where it would touch the euro brace in random spots. Besides being visually unappealing (IMO), the overflow just wasn’t working as I had wanted. At this point, it was over year since my tank was running – and installing a new overflow wall not an option.
Options:
1) Cut some teeth and allow for more water flow – although some like no teeth for skimming, I didn’t like this approach and wouldn’t be satisfied with appearance.
2) Create jig and try to lower the overflow teeth across the wall – best option…if the wall was out of the tank…LOL…I wouldn’t be happy with the results
3) Create jig and drill ½” holes under the teeth across the wall – went with this approach. I’d be happy with the function and would look cleaner.
Covering everywhere in case acrylic went flying into the tank and fish eating..
Created a jig/template out of wood and drilled 10 holes total. 5 between the locline, and 5 more on the right side of the lockline on the right (can't see the other 5 holes in this picture). To the left of the left locline is sectioned off and no water is overflowing - although it may look like it in this picture.
Inside the overflow after holes drilled. I can turn up my DC pump to my desired level with room to spare. I still get slight surface skimming through the teeth, and the additional holes allow for more water "overflow" so that the water isn't htting the eurobrace on the tank. BTW, you can see the dry chamber in this picture to the right.
Sorry for the long post...just wanted to share what has been top of mind tank wise.
Background: I have a peninsula style tank so I have an internal overflow at one end of the tank and holes drilled, etc. by the tank builder. The overall wall is roughly 30" (w) x 28" (h) with teeth at the top for overflow and skimming. With this design, my tank water level is essentially determined by the teeth height (which in turn determines how the rate that water could overflow) and the return rate of my pump. Furthering my challenge was 6” (w) x 28’ (h) of overflow was sectioned off to create a dry chamber so that I can run wiring through a PVC pipe. So my functional overflow size is actually 24” (w) x 28” (h), to be more accurate.
Problem: When my DC return pump was turned up to the level that I wanted for sufficient turnover and flow, the overflow Could not keep up. Well, it actually kept up in terms of the flow, however the water would rise to a point where it would touch the euro brace in random spots. Besides being visually unappealing (IMO), the overflow just wasn’t working as I had wanted. At this point, it was over year since my tank was running – and installing a new overflow wall not an option.
Options:
1) Cut some teeth and allow for more water flow – although some like no teeth for skimming, I didn’t like this approach and wouldn’t be satisfied with appearance.
2) Create jig and try to lower the overflow teeth across the wall – best option…if the wall was out of the tank…LOL…I wouldn’t be happy with the results
3) Create jig and drill ½” holes under the teeth across the wall – went with this approach. I’d be happy with the function and would look cleaner.
Covering everywhere in case acrylic went flying into the tank and fish eating..
Created a jig/template out of wood and drilled 10 holes total. 5 between the locline, and 5 more on the right side of the lockline on the right (can't see the other 5 holes in this picture). To the left of the left locline is sectioned off and no water is overflowing - although it may look like it in this picture.
Inside the overflow after holes drilled. I can turn up my DC pump to my desired level with room to spare. I still get slight surface skimming through the teeth, and the additional holes allow for more water "overflow" so that the water isn't htting the eurobrace on the tank. BTW, you can see the dry chamber in this picture to the right.
Sorry for the long post...just wanted to share what has been top of mind tank wise.
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