NEED: acrylic bonding advice

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I would use weld on #16 easy to find loacally at allot of plastic places, also I would add a piece inside the tank and then weld it to further strengthen it, So get a square piece that is half inch or 3/8" and after you weld the seem place that rod on the side and weld it to the bottom and side of the tank to add another layer to make it really sturdy. #40 would work as well just a little harder to work with.
 
The idea of reinforcing with square rod on the inside seam is a good one, but you should use weld-on 40 if you want the strongest bond possible; in addition to that link I sent, you can also check out the data sheets...40 creates a bond that is twice as strong as 16.

The pros use Weld-on 40 to build and repair tanks, so for my own piece of mind that is what I would use.
 
Number 16 is a joke dont waste ur money. Everything aldiaz33 stated is correct. #40 is the only glue used to make aquariums correctly. You can do arts and crafts with #4 and #16 if u like lol. I can show everyone pics of a 450 repaired with 16 and how it failed again until i used #40. There is a terrible misconception on acrylics glue on here. Weld on #40 is expensive because it is the best and you could build/repair anything with it. :) ask more questions if u need help. Repairing tanks can be fun, i enjoy it anyway. No need to be scared u have an easy fix. I'd also recomend square stock for inside on the seams. I did a couple tanks like this.

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40 is not hard to work with. 2 part expoxy, comes with directions lol. It dries in 30 min. As opposed to 24-48 hrs. for 16. You can reinforce a seam with the 40 alone even. Remarkable stuff, crystal clear liquid acrylic.

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How are you guys annealing these large tanks prior to applying #40/42?

Weld on #40 is not an epoxy it's a 2 part polymerizable cement that needs to be mixed prior to use. #42 is applied with a special applicator gun and both state right on the container that the plastic should be annealed prior to application of #40/42... however I doubt if anyone does this. There is a lot of bad information out there but this is what Ive found so far in my research of the product.

Solvent cementing forms a molecular bond and IMO is much stronger because you are essentially welding two sections together into one. Yes most will use #40/42 for large tanks but I believe this is more due to size and the difficulty in preparing these larger surfaces for solvent bonding and the fact that #40/42 is more forgiving of surface imperfections. A joint bonded with #40/42 can be seperated with a hammer, not so easy with a solvent joint. Solvent cementing will create a much stronger joint when done properly.
 
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