Need Experienced Advise - Peat Moss / Blackwater

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Tien

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
May 1, 2010
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Las Vegas
I have a 500 gallon tank that I will soon set up for large Amazon fish such as arowanas, Oscars, Arapaima Gigas, Payara, (these are options. not sure exactly what I will do yet). I have been reading my eyes out about the use of peat moss to create blackwater conditions. I have 2 questions:

1) I know I will have to remove carbon for the peat moss to be effective and to keep the tannins in the water. Will removing carbon cause more harm than good in the long run? Isn't the chemical filtration provided by the carbon important? If I leave the carbon in, I will lose color but will I still get the bhenefits of a lower ph?

2) A stable ph is better than constantly changing ph levels. If I use peat moss in my filters it will lower the ph. But what about water changes. If I add tap water it will be hard. Will the ph rise temporarily until the peat moss brings it back down? Or will the peat moss that has been running through the filter immediately reconcile the ph of the new water? If the new tap water will cause a rise in PH is it even worth it to play with peat moss or significant amounts of driftwood? If water changes pose a ph problem, what if I try to prep my water ahead of time by putting it in a large container with peat moss and once it reaches the same ph as the tank then add it. Has anyone tried this? Is it more pain than it is worth?

I know that was a bunch of questions disguised as just 2 lol! I would really love to hear from those who have worked with peat moss or are familiar with ph issues. In the mean time I have to figure out my aquarium background...
 
Tien,

Couple notes for you sir.
1) Rethink the Gigas. Not many can care for these fish (not saying you can't BTW) just that it will make your 500g look like a 55g in a short amount of time. Homework is key on that species.
2) Carbon is not as neccessary as it is often pushed by the LFS etc... because it's a consumable (purchased often). Most of us only use it for a short time after treating a tank to remove meds. Take the carbon out and use the space for more bio, especially if you go the a. gigas route.
3) If you are going to go blackwater, invest in an RO filter and a couple 55g drums (food grade and clean).

Premix your water 50%-50% RO/treated tap (to reconsitute the RO) in the drums and heat them to the tanks temp for water changes. This will deliver FAR more accurate and constant results for blackwater than messing with peat moss and large DW. Think of the drift wood as just a bonus if it leaches tannins. With a tank that large, trying to get BW results from anything other than RO can be done but keep it simple when possible. You didn't post your water perams the % of RO vs tap needs to be calculated until you get results your happy with, just not in the tank with fish while your testing. Hope that helps. ;)
 
hey in the filter you should use bio media instead of carbon because bio media lets color go i think?
 
Interesting. I was looking at RO units. So basically the RO water will lower the ph and I just need to find the right balance of RO and tap water? That will be good as I am not a huge fan of color in the water. I have also been reading about the use of plants to reduce nitrate levels. Seems very interesting. Yeah, I doubt I will go the arapaima route. I don't want to have to turn around and sell it. Arowanas will probably be as large as I go.
 
I don't like my tap water at all. I use RO water and reconstitute with Seachems GH and KH powder. I do a 40 gallon twice per week, heated and powder add I let sit for an hour to get complete dissolution with heaters and a pump. I like the yellow coloring into water so I use peat.

The RO water will set your pH to 7 but it will be unstable and prone to acid crash. That's why you need to go with recon chemistry or adding tap water. If you have hard water you can pour bottles of the black water additives and have little effect.
 
Tien;4115561; said:
Interesting. I was looking at RO units. So basically the RO water will lower the ph and I just need to find the right balance of RO and tap water? That will be good as I am not a huge fan of color in the water. I have also been reading about the use of plants to reduce nitrate levels. Seems very interesting. Yeah, I doubt I will go the arapaima route. I don't want to have to turn around and sell it. Arowanas will probably be as large as I go.
Click to expand...

The RO essecially strips the incoming water including minerals your fish need to survive. That is why you must mix with treated tap to reconstiture (replenish the minerals) the RO water. It will not leave a color in the water but IMO that is a shame. I love tannins and throw out wood when it stops leaching. :grinno: Remember though, PH is only an indicator of overall hardness. (kh, gh, TDS). Most people do not test for these values so they have been taught to use PH as the goal. In a true blackwater environment, the PH can drop as low as 3.5 - 5.0 very easily because the hardness is so low. It's up to you to decide how "black" you want your system by researching the needed PH range of your stock and mixing around those needs.
 
JK47;4115503; said:
Tien,

Couple notes for you sir.
1) Rethink the Gigas. Not many can care for these fish (not saying you can't BTW) just that it will make your 500g look like a 55g in a short amount of time. Homework is key on that species. .
Click to expand...

the pima is impossible for the tank ur size go to the articles section those people have the tank size needed ie johnptc with his 5k gallon tank or arapimamag with his 52k tank.
 
STXman;4115527; said:
hey in the filter you should use bio media instead of carbon because bio media lets color go i think?
Click to expand...


No? Bio lowers nitrates and nitrites doesn't release any color I don't k ow where your getting your info but you need to do you homework
 
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