Need Help, Green Severum doesnt look too good

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fishinatank

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 25, 2008
9
0
0
in a tank
hi. well, i hope someone can give me some info. first off, my digital camera broke and havent gotten the time to get a new one, so i cant post any pictures. But, i am going to try my best and give a detailed verbal description about the current situation.

Tank Water Info:
i start off with my water parameters; the ph level is about 6.8-7.0, and the nitrate and ammonia checked out ok and water temperature is about 81-83 degree. On the side note, I change about 30% percent of the tank water weekly and that includes vacuuming it. and i have already added a small amount of salt to my tank as a precaution (and yes all the fish in the tank, including the severum could tolerate the salt because i have treated the fish with salt in the past because of ich).

The Sick Fish Description:
all the fish seem perfectly fine. except for this green severum. it has really bad torn up fins but it think is from the female severum in the tank when they tried to do their mating thing. so, that rules out fin rot, i hope at least. it also has some sort of whitish spots covering its fin and a bit on the body, which i know for sure is not ich because i dealt with ich before. And the white spot is a bit bigger than those white spot from ich and its the only fish in the tank with it. but the biggest probelm is the fish anus/vent area (including is anus and its male sex tube) is very reddish and swollen. It doesnt look like prolapse anus, or camallanus because i acutally search this forums and google those two problem and it doesnt look like any of them.

Color of the Sick Severum Poo:
as for its poo, the last time i checked, its color is the normal color brownish, nothing white. But, it doesnt look thick because everytime i see it poop it just disintegrate into the water the second it exit its anus. is that healthy? because it doesnt look like the poo of the health female severum in the tank.

The Sick Fish Habits:
but, the fish spends most its time at the top of the tank next to the filter outlet. it would once in a while come down and chase the female severum in the tank a bit, but at the end goes back up. i dont think is the lack of oxygen in the tank making this severum staying at the time most of its time because the other fish seem perfectly happy and fine.

The Fish Normal Diet:
as for the fish diet, i normally feed them floating pellet (their staple food source), algae weafers (meant for my pleco but the other fishes likes them too), blood worms (once a week), brine shrimp (once a week), freeze dry krill (once a week), and de-shelled green peas (once a week). the green severum seem to be eating but not as much as it usually does.

Sick Fish Size:
the sick green severum size is about 8-9 inches from head to the tip of its tail.

I hope i gave a good enough description on my severum that someone can give me some idea of what is wrong with it. any idea/tip is apprieated. Should i isolate him or its too late and i should just put him out of its misery. because its anus area doesn't look too good. and i think it might have made him infertile becase the last two batches of eggs were all unfertile, while the mutli-spawing before were all succeful.

thanks in adavance.
 
I have had something similar to this but not with the number 2 problem. On my fish it was almost like a goo on it and not ich. I am not an expert on fish diseases but I took a lot of pictures and a sample of the goo to the LFS to have it tested and what not and they had no idea. The fish ended up being fine. After about a month of 80 degree water.
 
thanks for the quick reply cpr_mike......thou its doesnt look like gloo on my fish ...your input is still much apprieated, thanks

anyone else with any other clue on what can be wrong with my fish...
 
any opinion anyone? i know it might be hard to tell what might be wrong with my fish with out any picture. but base on my description please give me any idea or opinion on what you might think could be wrong. and which i will look it up and see if i can find any picture of what you might think could be wrong with my fish online. and compare it to my fish. the last thing i want to do is to euthanasia the fish. but if its for the best of the community tank and to put the fish out of its misery, i do will do it. but as i have mention, i have seen the fish poo thru the swollen anus....but i still think its imparing its ability to poo a bit. and i dont think it could because its constipated because i do feed the fish its vegies at least once a week.

anyway open to all opinion and ideas. thanks
 
anyone?

well, anyway i have looked at prolapsed anus a bit more......and i might now think that my fish have prolapsed anus....not totally sure if it is that. but just in case if it is prolapsed anus, what should i do, is it curable?...etc..
 
Hi,

Without the photos, this is very difficult to picture out how the anus actually looks. However if you do suspect prolapse, then the first thing you must do is isolate the fish immediately in a hospital tank. Try to increase its fiber intake for a moment and stop the bloodworms for the time being. Treat it with epsom salt (magnesium sulfate). If it does not eat well at all, smear the foods wih garlic and see how it reacts. If it persists not to eat, then switch your treatment course to medicated foods. If you could make small gel food reserves, add kanaplex or maracyn and maracyn 2 with the gel foods. Usually, my gel food recipes are simply baby foods, Knox gelatin, multivitamins and calcium. If you want the recipe, here it is.

Disregard the fish added on ingredients list as it was intended for goldfish which needed the fatty acids and oil as part of its diet.

Ingredients
6 4 oz jars of baby food (any brand and flavor; I use Gerber)
2-3 calcium pills (optional; I use Caltrate)
1-2 tablespoons of fish food (optional; I use Hikari Lionhead)
4 sachets of unflavored gelatin (by Knox)
1 can of sardines/mackerel/tuna (90 grams I believe)
1 acidophilus tablet (optional; recommended for fancy goldfish who may have buoyancy issues)

Equipments
Microwave oven
Mortar and pestle or blender
Microwave container or bowl
1 tablespoon
1 fork
Cookie pans
A roll of wax paper

Instructions
1. Pound tablets first and then mix with baby foods.
2. Wash the fish (sardines/mackerel/tuna) to remove the tomato sauce completely.
3. Mix no. 1 and no. 2 together.
4. Boil water in the pot. Pour the gelatin in there and keep stirring.
5. Pour no. 3 into a microwaveable container and set microwave at medium and keep it on for a minute or two.
6. While waiting, wrap the cookie pan with wax paper.
7. Open the oven and get the bowl out of it.
8. Pour the thick into the cookie pans and make sure you get 1/4 inch thick of mix. If the mix seems to settle separately, stir it again with a tablespoon or fork.
9. Once done, place the cookie pans inside your fridge.

Wait for a few hours until the gel food thickens. Make sure beforehand the mixture is thick, not too runny. If it is runny, you are adding too much water and very little gelatin powder, in this case add more gelatin, spread it around on the thick and stir. Pour a little boiling water or rather
place it in a microwave oven again and wait for another minute.





Here's the list of recommended treatments and dosages from another forum I am a member of.
  • metronidazole (Flagyl): Seachem makes a powdered metronidazole that is dosed in the same manner as kanaplex. Or if you have metronidazole tablets, crush them into a powder and the dose is 250mg of metronidazole per 25 grams of food.
  • tetracycline: the dose is 250mg tetracycline per 100 grams of food.
  • minocycline (Maracyn 2): the dose is 250mg minocycline per 100 grams of food. This works out to three packets of maracyn two per rounded tablespoon of food. This food is not very palatable and fish may not eat it.
  • erythromicin (Maracyn 1): the dose is 500mg erythromicin per 150 grams of food, fed for 10 days. Note this antibiotic primarily affects gram positive bacteria, so it would not be my first choice of an antibiotic for fish.
If you intend to add antibiotics, please reserve it to a small portion of gel foods only that should last you 2-3 weeks. The rest need not have the antibiotics added and you can feed that to your other fish.
 
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