Need help with reinforcing a new tank stand

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Drumm22

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Apr 1, 2020
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Trying to put the biggest possible tank in this spot, hopefully 120gal. There’s tile with plywood underneath. Don’t worry about dimensions, if someone can tell me what I need to do to make sure it’s properly reinforced I’ll do my research on the best fitting tank. THANK YOU

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If your willing to lose the drawers and adjust the shelves I would build a 2x4 frame inside the cabinetry and call it a day. You can always attach just the drawer fronts to the frame with screws or staples to keep it aesthetically pleasing.
 
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Honestly? Looks good to hold 1500lbs already. If you’re really concerned you could add a few 2x4s vertically on the outsides under the counter since I can’t tell if the counter has vertical supports on the ends.
I have basically the same build design in an old entertainment unit that’s not attached to a wall holding one of my tanks.

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If your willing to lose the drawers and adjust the shelves I would build a 2x4 frame inside the cabinetry and call it a day. You can always attach just the drawer fronts to the frame with screws or staples to keep it aesthetically pleasing.
It is just drawer fronts actually . The previous homeowners put up this unit just to hide some ugly pipes. I’m willing to gut the entire thing
 
Honestly? Looks good to hold 1500lbs already. If you’re really concerned you could add a few 2x4s vertically on the outsides under the counter since I can’t tell if the counter has vertical supports on the ends.
I have basically the same build design in an old entertainment unit that’s not attached to a wall holding one of my tanks.

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I was thinking about putting 4x4s and maybe a 5/8plywood under the tile part just to be extra safe
 
4x4 would be way past capable of holding the weight and the only thing better than built is overbuilt ?
Do you think I should cut holes in the bottom of the cabinets? And then put the 4x4s thru them to reach the ground
 
To me the weak point looks like the support for the top along the back... there doesn't seem to be much there to keep the back of the top from bowing down.

I would buy / rent a powder actuated nail gun and drive some fasteners (hardened nails) through the cross piece at the back of the cabinet supporting the top into the cinderblock wall. Maybe a foot or so apart all along that back piece. This will transfer the load of the back of the top to the cinderblock wall giving it a LOT more support while also shoring up the entire structure.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ramset-HammerShot-0-22-Caliber-Single-Shot-Tool-00022/100091715

I would not add any additional 2x4's.

Since it has a tile top I would definitely put a yoga mat (Or closed cell camping matt which is a little thicker than a yoga matt) between the tile and the tank to support the tank more evenly. Tile by its nature is a pretty uneven surface which will cause stress points.
 
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To me the weak point looks like the support for the top along the back... there doesn't seem to be much there to keep the back of the top from bowing down.

I would buy / rent a powder actuated nail gun and drive some fasteners (hardened nails) through the cross piece at the back of the cabinet supporting the top into the cinderblock wall. Maybe a foot or so apart all along that back piece. This will transfer the load of the back of the top to the cinderblock wall giving it a LOT more support while also shoring up the entire structure.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ramset-HammerShot-0-22-Caliber-Single-Shot-Tool-00022/100091715

I would not add any additional 2x4's.

Since it has a tile top I would definitely put a yoga mat (Or closed cell camping matt which is a little thicker than a yoga matt) between the tile and the tank to support the tank more evenly. Tile by its nature is a pretty uneven surface which will cause stress points.
Thanks allot! I probably will do what you said was the nail gun. Any recommendations on what nails to use? And I was gonna use 4x4s in each corner going straight down to the floor, and 2 in the middle so 6 4x4 legs under the tile/plywood. Does that sound ok
 
Thanks allot! I probably will do what you said was the nail gun. Any recommendations on what nails to use? And I was gonna use 4x4s in each corner going straight down to the floor, and 2 in the middle so 6 4x4 legs under the tile/plywood. Does that sound ok

The nails to use are specific to the powder actuated nail gun:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ramset-2-1-2-in-Drive-Pins-with-Washers-100-Pack-00809/100024795
Choose the length nails you need from the selection available.

You will also need to purchase the powder loads for the powder actuated gun:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ramset-...e-Shot-Powder-Loads-100-Count-00607/100187029

The $25 gun I linked to above has to be hit squarely on the top with a hammer but a powerful blow is not needed. Be mindful of being able to make this hammer swing in your enclosed space if you buy one. There are other more expensive powder actuated tools that you can buy/rent that have an internal hammer which is released by a trigger which does not require you to hit the powder actuated gun with a hammer:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ramset-TriggerShot-0-22-Caliber-Powder-Actuated-Tool-40066/202055966

I have the very cheap ($25) tool I linked to in the prior post requiring a hammer blow and it has always worked well for my purposes. I have not used the cheap powder actuated gun with a trigger release so I can not vouch for how well it works... but the reviews are good.

To me 4x4's sound like WAY overkill for my way of building which is way overbuilding everything! I would use 2x4's at most but I really don't think you need them. The two ends of the top are supported by plywood sides and another piece of plywood in the center supporting the center of the top. I do not believe additional bracing is necessary. Go look at a big tank stand at Petco and see how they are constructed. Petco stands are made out of particle board which not nearly as strong as plywood and Petco stands are free standing. Your built in stand is not free standing, it is supported by the surrounding walls which will eliminate any chance of it being pushed askew.
 
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