I have a 180g tank 72x24x24 and it has a center overflow with 3 holes a large one in the center which is 1 1/4in and 2 3/4 on both sides. I was planing on using the larger hole for main drain and the 2 3/4 for return but I'm worried about flooding. What do you guys think
Need help with sump setup
- Thread starter Drips702
- Start date
I would worry about flooding too! I would want at least 1 emergency overflow!
Could you post a picture of how your center overflow is currently configured? I am also in the process of setting up an acrylic 180g 72" x 24" x 24" tank. I have most of my plumbing completed and my next step is to install the overflow box. My tank is in a peninsula configuration (The tank sticks out 72" from the wall).
Could you post a picture of how your center overflow is currently configured? I am also in the process of setting up an acrylic 180g 72" x 24" x 24" tank. I have most of my plumbing completed and my next step is to install the overflow box. My tank is in a peninsula configuration (The tank sticks out 72" from the wall).
To avoid flooding when there's a power loss or when your pump fails you should use all the holes as drains and rerout your return plumbing to the top of the tank.
I do that with all my tanks. Also that eliminates the need for a check valve, which will eventually fail too.
When the pumps water is sent to the top you automatically have a siphon block. Which means when the pump stops the water level drops and there's an air gap between the top of the tank and the plumbing. Keeping the water in the tank and not siphoning back to your sump causing a major overflow. After setting this up test it by turning off your pump and seeing how much the water rises in the sump and make adjustments to the sump levels accordingly. My sumps fill all the way to the top when the pumps are off!
Good luck, this hobby is way more fun without leaks!
I do that with all my tanks. Also that eliminates the need for a check valve, which will eventually fail too.
When the pumps water is sent to the top you automatically have a siphon block. Which means when the pump stops the water level drops and there's an air gap between the top of the tank and the plumbing. Keeping the water in the tank and not siphoning back to your sump causing a major overflow. After setting this up test it by turning off your pump and seeing how much the water rises in the sump and make adjustments to the sump levels accordingly. My sumps fill all the way to the top when the pumps are off!
Good luck, this hobby is way more fun without leaks!
Thanks for the tip, I forgot to mention that the return outlets are also attached to the over flow box. Ill try to get a picture. If I do go with the 3 holes as drains will they all need to be different heights aswell? Also do they all need to be durso style for noise?
Crap, your getting set up for failure. I just posted a few pictures on my overflow set up yesterday in my 1100 gallon tank. Take a look at it and let me know if you have questions. I can take follow up pictures for you if needed.
Are you running a sump or a canister filter?
If you have a canister filter, your good to go. Disregard everything I said lol
If you have a sump: Uncap that small drain and run it to the sump. The more drains the better, its like having to much money. No one ever said "dang it, I have to much money"
Next run those return lines above the water level or right at the water level. When the pump stops those pipes will drain your water to that level. The higher that water level is the better, keep as much water in your tank. Unless your sump is the same size as your tank, then no big deal, but who does that???
Then when everything is set up and running turn off your pump and see if the sump can handle all the water. If it can great, if not then remove some water and try again. When you fine the sweet spot mark the sump with a sharpie marker or something. Then you have a guide to keep your water level at for evaporation and so on.
If you have a canister filter, your good to go. Disregard everything I said lol
If you have a sump: Uncap that small drain and run it to the sump. The more drains the better, its like having to much money. No one ever said "dang it, I have to much money"
Next run those return lines above the water level or right at the water level. When the pump stops those pipes will drain your water to that level. The higher that water level is the better, keep as much water in your tank. Unless your sump is the same size as your tank, then no big deal, but who does that???
Then when everything is set up and running turn off your pump and see if the sump can handle all the water. If it can great, if not then remove some water and try again. When you fine the sweet spot mark the sump with a sharpie marker or something. Then you have a guide to keep your water level at for evaporation and so on.
The overflow is a great opportunity for a bio tower. I fill my overflows with bio balls. Before you put in the bio balls put a light diffuser screen above your drains so no bio balls pass to your sump. I also put a filter pad on top to catch stuff before it even gets to the sump. Its easier for me to clean/replace this pad than the one in the sump. May or may not work on your tank just a thought.
It makes a lot more sense seeing your pictures.
If it were me I would consider opening one of the 3/4 bulkheads up to 1-1/4" as an emergency overflow. If you want to run your returns through the overflow box (makes sense for neatness and keeping the tank from being cluttered) I would open the second 3/4" bulkhead up to 1" and use it as a return with a Tee at the top to split it into two 3/4" return pipes. When I say "opening up the 3/4" bulkhead" I mean remove the 3/4" bulkhead, drill the bulkhead hole to accept 1.25" or 1" bulkheads, then put the new large bulkheads in with the associated plumbing. Acrylic is pretty easy to drill. When I enlarged the bulkhead holes in my 180g this is how I did it: https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...bottom-planted-tank-build.714316/post-8188643 I just used a piece of scrap wood with the size of the new bulkhead hole in it as a guide to drill the bigger hole in the acrylic.
It looks like your 1-1/4" overflow pipe is constricted into a 1" pipe at the bottom. This will have a big impact on your maximum flow through that overflow pipe.
A simpler approach is to use the capped off 3/4" bulkhead as an emergency overflow and keep the other two as they are. There would be no new holes to drill.
What is your goal? If it is just extra flood protection use your current capped 3/4" bulkhead as an emergency overflow and call it good! If you want to increase the water turn over in your tank (more GPH) then I would enlarge the current bulkheads as described.
Like Egon I like bio towers (trickle filters, wet dry filters). I am implementing something similar in my 180 build:
Last edited: