Need to stack a 180 and a 125. Need suggestions

biguebs

Dovii
MFK Member
Mar 5, 2011
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Fort Wayne, IN
Hey all, so I lucked into an extremely cost effective 125 gal and I need to create a stack stand for it and a 180 gal.

I built a plywood double stand for two other 125s but I’m trying to figure out how to properly support the 125 on top with the 180 below. I guess my main concern is getting the weight down to the floor without screws/bolts bearing the weight, but obviously I have a two foot wide tank on the bottom and a 18” on top.

It doesn’t have to be pretty - my setups are all in a (heated) garage. So i was looking at one at the end of one of the stickies and it got me to thinking (see picture). This guy was making racks with cinder blocks and 2x4’s. He has the 2x4’s flat - would never trust a 125 across a span like that on the weaker configuration of the wood - but what if I built a platform with 2x6’s “on end” that supported the 125 on edges and used cinder blocks to transfer the weight to the floor? Probably two 2x6’s running the length of the 6 ft sides and out, with some cross braces and a piece of 3/4 plywood on top. Maybe a couple 4x6’s or sistered 2x6’s running the length instead. As long as it’s level, that would work right??

Alternatively, does anyone have a plywood build idea or has anybody seen one somewhere? I can’t seem to find the right combination of words to find what I need on here or google.

Any insight appreciated.

3A59BA66-13CB-4FC4-AAA1-A1999AF91175.png
 

BIG-G

Goliath Tigerfish
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Dec 12, 2005
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If you want to use cinder blocks you can buil a frame out of 2x6 just like you would to frame out a floor or wood stand and place it onto stacked cinders.
If you want to do a wood stand you can find lots of different designs.
Basically you build out a top and bottom frame and support it with the vertical boards not with the Screws.
You can size this basic design to fit your needs.
The weight is supported by the purple vertical
2C84D48B-8D69-4022-8A52-F367ECBD03AC.jpeg
This design can be adapted for cinders.
The vertical would be substituted for cinders.
I would build out of wood frame myself.
Is there a reason for using cinders?
 
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biguebs

Dovii
MFK Member
Mar 5, 2011
568
376
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Fort Wayne, IN
If you want to use cinder blocks you can buil a frame out of 2x6 just like you would to frame out a floor or wood stand and place it onto stacked cinders.
If you want to do a wood stand you can find lots of different designs.
Basically you build out a top and bottom frame and support it with the vertical boards not with the Screws.
You can size this basic design to fit your needs.
The weight is supported by the purple vertical
View attachment 1417902
This design can be adapted for cinders.
The vertical would be substituted for cinders.
I would build out of wood frame myself.
Is there a reason for using cinders?
First, thanks for the thoughtful reply. That drawing is basically the exact build I did on my double 125 stand. If I was putting the 180 on top I wouldn’t even be asking the question since the 125 would just fit under there.
I’m probably just overthinking this but what I’m trying to sort out in my head is how to get the 2x6s to properly support the 125 on top with it being an 18.5” wide tank going over a 24” wide tank.
But now that I’m looking at that- I can just cut the 2x4s in green so that I can have 2x6s at the appropriate width there. They’d be wide enough to catch and support those there right? (That make sense?)
 

BIG-G

Goliath Tigerfish
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What if you build this stand 24 wide top and bottom but add a third horizontal 2x6 support on the top with two verticals to support each end.
The yellow line would be the extra horizontal the extra green on each end would support the horizontal.
BEEAA59F-F860-41C5-8DE2-844039B9D1B7.jpeg
It would be a very strong design.
 

BIG-G

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Dec 12, 2005
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You could also just add some support in the back that would support the cross bracing transferring the weight to the bottom.
DD814F31-2731-4CAE-9967-4C7E82BC8581.jpeg
All these designs are assuming that the top and bottom will be sheeted with plywood correct?
You could double up the front horizontal 2x6 for supporting the span in the front
 

biguebs

Dovii
MFK Member
Mar 5, 2011
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Fort Wayne, IN
BIG-G BIG-G Yep, the solution is DEFINITELY in there. Thanks for the assist!
You’re correct, top and bottom will be sheeted with ply. I will probably add the center support with the verticals and try to keep the tank centered on the top “shelf” so it stays square and the stand doesn’t compromise itself. Nice piece of 3/4” ply tying the 2x6s together.
 
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esoxlucius

Balaclava Bot Butcher
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What you are trying to do is a relatively easy fix, and BIG-G BIG-G has pointed you in the right direction.

But you do have another solution staring you right in the face, and you've already alluded to it. You say your tanks are in your garage so aesthetics aren't of paramount importance. Why don't you simply have your 180 on top and the 125, as you say, "will just fit under there". No need for any fancy stand adjustments.

Or is there a specific reason why your 180 needs to go on the bottom?
 

biguebs

Dovii
MFK Member
Mar 5, 2011
568
376
102
Fort Wayne, IN
What you are trying to do is a relatively easy fix, and BIG-G BIG-G has pointed you in the right direction.

But you do have another solution staring you right in the face, and you've already alluded to it. You say your tanks are in your garage so aesthetics aren't of paramount importance. Why don't you simply have your 180 on top and the 125, as you say, "will just fit under there". No need for any fancy stand adjustments.

Or is there a specific reason why your 180 needs to go on the bottom?
A good point- but yes there is a reason I’m trying to put the 180 below. I have a male snapping turtle in there. He’s about 7” and will need to go in a much larger enclosure down the road (but turtles don’t grow like fish luckily lol). Anyway, the tank was made in like 1975 and has failed a few times in the past on me. Has a glass patch and now has been resealed twice. It holds water at about 1/3 full just fine but it’s real ugly above the water line lol. Would rather have the “nicer looking” tank at eye level and the tank with a history of fails below is all.
 

Backfromthedead

Potamotrygon
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Jul 12, 2017
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I would probably build a 84"Lx24"Wx36" stand using 4x6s for the pillars and beams. A 6' 180 should slide right into the space below and you could run whatever equipment you have off the ends. The 125 would sit dead center on the middle top, wouldnt be over the pillars but the 4x6 beams would be more than strong enough to hold.

The inherent beauty of this stand is that when you happen to find a cost effective 7x2 tank you will already have a place for it.
 
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