Never cycled?

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epicentyr

Candiru
MFK Member
Jan 23, 2006
171
0
46
GR Michigan
Is is possible that my tank has never cycled? I have 30 gallons of bio balls in my 75 gallon sump. My readings are

pH 7.85
Ammonia .04+
Nitrite ?
Nitrate 0

This tank has been in operation for ~2 months and I would think that I should be seeing some nitrates and a reduction in NH3. I am feeding ~20 krill and 6-10 earthworms per day. 40 gallon water change per day (average). There is 120# of estes black sand in there. I have added 2-8oz bottles of seachem stability. I have good bacterial flocking on the surfaces (walls, glass, bio balls). I have ~900gph return from the sump after head loss. Seio 1500 gph power head part time, for additional flow. Rays are eating and acting what I would say is normal.

Any Ideas??
 
Well it could be that the cycle just isnt finished - if there was no BB there your ammonia would be very high with the rays and all that food. It could just be that the cycle hasnt produced enough BB yet to handle the huge bioload in your tank. How many rays do you have? Are your bioballs submerged - if so that might be a problem, theyre not so great when submerged. How long did you wait before you put in the rays? Did you put everything in all together, or did you stagger it? Depending on how long ago you put in the rays and how far along the cycle was, the tank could just be catching up. Id just do lots of water changes. Itll slow the cycle even more, but you need to get the ammonia out of there in the mean time for the sake of the rays. And check your nitrites also!
 
The bio balls are submerged but I have 2 large air diffusers under them that should keep the water flow and oxygen rich. The rays have been in for 2 weeks now. There is a 6.5" female and a 10.5" male. I am hoping that the cycle is just still getting going. I had feeders and random PetSmart community fish in there before I added the rays. I was overfeeding the cheepo fish to try to stimulate the cycle.
 
i think your good.... i would add some seachem sability or bio spira though.... its good for preventing a spike ray produce alot of waste and you dont have a very large volume of water....
 
Nic;1764319; said:
i think your good.... i would add some seachem sability or bio spira though.... its good for preventing a spike ray produce alot of waste and you dont have a very large volume of water....
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IMO i dont think water volume would be an issue since its a 75gal sump (assuming since the sump is big the tank is big) but a small tank with a 75 gal sump might be a problem. definately agree that seachem stability would be good enough.
 
I may have missed it, but what are you w/cs like? If you have done alot of w/cs you may be artificially taking away ammonia so your are not growing any BB to produce the nitrites and nitrates.
 
just cause its a 75 gallon sump doesnt mean its filled with 75 gallons of water.... i think if i remember correctly he is just over 150 gallons of water total system capacity... he has the awesome bar tank...

auto water changes too...
 
The bar is running ~120 gal and the sump is running ~65 gallons so ~185 TWV. As long as there is ammonia in the tank the cycle should be working. The only way to stop a cycle with water changes would be to change 100% of the water after every meal. I will keep up with the Stability but it is getting $$.

I also have used prime as an ammonia neutralizer. The kits still read ammonia but could it be invisible to the bacteria since it has been "neutralized"? I havn't used much of this as I know that it can lengthen the cycle. I am balancing the scales between length and severity of the cycle.
 
Nic;1764852; said:
just cause its a 75 gallon sump doesnt mean its filled with 75 gallons of water.... i think if i remember correctly he is just over 150 gallons of water total system capacity... he has the awesome bar tank...

auto water changes too...
Click to expand...

i stand corrected, its 170 total water volume......a very nice bar tank
 
epicentyr;1764875; said:
The bar is running ~120 gal and the sump is running ~65 gallons so ~185 TWV. As long as there is ammonia in the tank the cycle should be working. The only way to stop a cycle with water changes would be to change 100% of the water after every meal. I will keep up with the Stability but it is getting $$.

I also have used prime as an ammonia neutralizer. The kits still read ammonia but could it be invisible to the bacteria since it has been "neutralized"? I havn't used much of this as I know that it can lengthen the cycle. I am balancing the scales between length and severity of the cycle.
Click to expand...

prime just converts amonia to amonium a bio available form thats less toxic
 
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