I have a 240 gal freshwater 8' x 2' x 2' tank, that is overstocked and joined to get some insight on lowering nitrates in the tank. Current inhabitants (measured tip to tip) are:
After I add the Peacock Bass I have no intentions of adding anymore to the mix.
Being that the tank is overstocked, the filtration system is complex. Details are:
I also have assembled a system which performs automatic water changes. Basically, a sprinkler timer activates a solenoid for 25 minutes every 12 hours (approximately 20 gallons per activation) (40 gallon water change per day, everyday). Water flows through a series of five canister filters, with an alternating combination of carbon block and GAC filters. Two filters in a series yielded 0 ppm chlorine, the extra three are just overkill. A float switch activates a pump which pumps water to a drain and keeps the sump at a safe level.
I previously used R.O. water, but the hassles of adding back salt and minerals, then buffering the PH proved to be too much when combined with the fact it had to run 12 + hours a day for a 40 gallon water change.
Gravel is vacuumed twice a month along with a 50% water change, filter media, bags and carbon are replaced once a month. All of the above keeps everything down to roughly 3 hours of maintenance a month, two of the hours are just for the gravel cleaning, one hour a month for everything else.
Fish are fed frozen shrimp once a day, various cichlid pellets are also given a few hours later with the filter shut down. Any excess food is netted out before turning the sump pumps back on. Rosie reds, guppies and occasionally comet feeders are given to mix things up. Pacus are also given walnuts, peanuts, rasberries, etc as treats.
All of this being said, I test the water every few days and these are typical results:
Here's a few pictures, if you notice any fish which wasn't listed above, they have already been eaten...
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- one Channel Catfish, 17"
- one Silver Arowana, 16"
- two red belly Pacu, 12" and 11"
- one Mayan Cichlid, 8"
- one Leopard Ctenopoma, 5"
- four adult male Angelfish, 4" each
- two blood parrot cichlids, 4" each
- one comet (feeder) Goldfish, aka "the survivor", 7"
- I have two 5" Peacock Bass on the way
After I add the Peacock Bass I have no intentions of adding anymore to the mix.
Being that the tank is overstocked, the filtration system is complex. Details are:
- Overflow (drilled with two standpipes)
- Large trickle sump (65 gal), overflow water goes to 1" thick floss in tray, then to bio balls, to a chamber with airstones and powerheads, then to foam filter pads, through a carbon / zeolite / gravel mix, then to a refugium.
- Refugium holds a mag drive 12, mag drive 7 and a mag drive 3 pump.
- Mag drive 12 flows through a pentek 20" bag vessel filter with 50 micron bag, then to tank.
- Mag drive 7 flows through another pentek 20" bag vessel filter with 50 micron bag, then to tank.
- Mag drive 3 flows through yet another pentek 20" bag vessel filter with 50 micron bag, then through two 36 watt uv sterilizers in series, then to tank.
- In the tank there are a total of five powerheads, two are injecting air, three are for making a strong current in the tank. (For some reason, the Arowana goes crazy, bullying everything in the tank without them.)
- Two 150 watt heaters and one 300 watt heater are in the refugium, keeping the water temp between 82-83 degrees.
I also have assembled a system which performs automatic water changes. Basically, a sprinkler timer activates a solenoid for 25 minutes every 12 hours (approximately 20 gallons per activation) (40 gallon water change per day, everyday). Water flows through a series of five canister filters, with an alternating combination of carbon block and GAC filters. Two filters in a series yielded 0 ppm chlorine, the extra three are just overkill. A float switch activates a pump which pumps water to a drain and keeps the sump at a safe level.
I previously used R.O. water, but the hassles of adding back salt and minerals, then buffering the PH proved to be too much when combined with the fact it had to run 12 + hours a day for a 40 gallon water change.
Gravel is vacuumed twice a month along with a 50% water change, filter media, bags and carbon are replaced once a month. All of the above keeps everything down to roughly 3 hours of maintenance a month, two of the hours are just for the gravel cleaning, one hour a month for everything else.
Fish are fed frozen shrimp once a day, various cichlid pellets are also given a few hours later with the filter shut down. Any excess food is netted out before turning the sump pumps back on. Rosie reds, guppies and occasionally comet feeders are given to mix things up. Pacus are also given walnuts, peanuts, rasberries, etc as treats.
All of this being said, I test the water every few days and these are typical results:
- Nitrate 40ppm, rarely 80ppm
- Nitrite, usually 0, rarely .5 ppm
- GH 75-100 ppm
- Chlorine 0 ppm
- KH 150-180 ppm
- PH 6.8 - 7.2
- Is 40-80ppm of Nitrate acceptable?
- What is the norm for Nitrate in other tanks?
- Is there a better way to reduce this without larger daily water changes?
- I've tried plants, but even with grow lights, timers etc I can't get anything to thrive in my sump, not even moss balls or Java moss
I can grow fish, but I definitely don't have a green thumb...
Here's a few pictures, if you notice any fish which wasn't listed above, they have already been eaten...
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