New to PB

ninjastar · Feb 21, 2018

Hi all Im new to the game with PB. I had a 200gal tank with jardini for more than 10yrs and passed away not to long ago and was looking to get another one but ended up with a couple pb.......still trying to id them but its seems like mission impossibile to see them.

Well here are a couple questions.

1-How long does it take for pb to stop being so shy?? Their about 2in atm
2-Would a 400gal be good enough for 9pb or more when they get bigger?
3-Im going on military leave for a couple days and was wondering if its okay to put a good amount of feeders in the tank before I leave??
Ive done this before for my other fish but dont know if this would work for them too.
4-What is the best pellet for pb for color and growth? I currently feed my other fish hikari gold.

ninjastar · Feb 21, 2018

Bump??

cigars · Feb 22, 2018

1. Once your bass know your are the source of food shyness will go away I have found some to be very shy when little and some not shy at all but usually around 4 to 6” range it goes away also a larger group of bass odd numbers 3,5,7 might have missed if you said how many you have and dithers always help little baby bass be less shy silver dollars and Oscars are what I have always used

2. 400 gallon tank is big enough as long as the dimensions are wide. As far as stocking it depends on type of bass and filteration, nitrate levels etc. you can always reduce stock or auto drip to help with nitrate levels.

3. Baby bass should be ok for a few days without feeding, I have tried having someone (non hobbiest) babysit my fish when I have gone on vacation and have come home to a complete disaster. I have actually gone on vacation for 7 days with baby bass and not fed them for a week and come home to ready to eat healthy bass. It’s a risk but I would rather risk not feeding than have someone babysit and not know what to look for or do or over feed etc. I’m sure others will chime in on this, but this is my personal preference.

4. I actually feed a combination of stuff to my Bass strictly hikari for pellets my personal preference here. I use hikari carnisticks, massivore, bio gold, I also feed shrimp, tilapia soaked in vita chem. Colors really depend on the bass in my opinion wc give the best colors but I have some F1 brokopondo that have just as much color as my wc broko had. So to me it depends on the bass and if it’s an f2,f3 etc. seems to not have great color and usually has defects of some sort.

Hopefully I covered everything and most importantly hope others will chime with other input

ninjastar · Feb 23, 2018

cigars said:
1. Once your bass know your are the source of food shyness will go away I have found some to be very shy when little and some not shy at all but usually around 4 to 6” range it goes away also a larger group of bass odd numbers 3,5,7 might have missed if you said how many you have and dithers always help little baby bass be less shy silver dollars and Oscars are what I have always used

Hopefully I covered everything and most importantly hope others will chime with other input

So what other tank mates would you recommend cause right now I have 2 oscars that are 14in and 2 jack demp that are around 8in in a 150gal. I was thinking of adding them to the 200gal once they good in size but I was thinking to get something else to growout as well. maybe more peacock bass.

cigars said:
1.
2. 400 gallon tank is big enough as long as the dimensions are wide. As far as stocking it depends on type of bass and filteration, nitrate levels etc. you can always reduce stock or auto drip to help with nitrate levels.

Hopefully I covered everything and most importantly hope others will chime with other input

How many fish would you generaly limit when it comes to big fish per gallon??

cigars said:
3. Baby bass should be ok for a few days without feeding, I have tried having someone (non hobbiest) babysit my fish when I have gone on vacation and have come home to a complete disaster. I have actually gone on vacation for 7 days with baby bass and not fed them for a week and come home to ready to eat healthy bass. It’s a risk but I would rather risk not feeding than have someone babysit and not know what to look for or do or over feed etc. I’m sure others will chime in on this, but this is my personal preference.

Hopefully I covered everything and most importantly hope others will chime with other input

So Im guessing it wouldnt be a good idea just to dump in 40 or so feeders at once then??

cigars said:
4. I actually feed a combination of stuff to my Bass strictly hikari for pellets my personal preference here. I use hikari carnisticks, massivore, bio gold, I also feed shrimp, tilapia soaked in vita chem. Colors really depend on the bass in my opinion wc give the best colors but I have some F1 brokopondo that have just as much color as my wc broko had. So to me it depends on the bass and if it’s an f2,f3 etc. seems to not have great color and usually has defects of some sort.

Hopefully I covered everything and most importantly hope others will chime with other input

Is their a link that talks about what your saying as far as grade goes and which peacock bass is a higher rarity that others?? Like is a azul rare compared to a kelberi and so on??

cigars · Feb 23, 2018

Silver dollars or more bass (odd numbers) are my preference as dithers your Oscar is way to big it would eat them I’m sure you know this, down the road when bass are big enough you can combine.

Fish per gallon has been debated on here like crazy so I’m going to leave that one alone really good filtration and monitoring nitrate levels is the determining factor and not over stocking.

You can put feeders in if you want I don’t feed live that’s my personal preference because of possible illnesses that can be transferred.

Wild caught bass are always more expensive and do look better color wise less likely to have deformities (my opinion). Now that being said I do have and currently own F1 bass (offspring of wild caught) that look just as nice as wc (my opinion) and probably some F2/f3, now some members on here say that anything other than wc is watered down fish keeping and I respect there opinions and the members that have all wild caught have stunning collections. F2 are offspring of F1, this is where in bass it seems to water down colors and more likely to have deformities etc. You get the idea right. Doesn’t always 100% apply but seems to be higher percentage that it does.

And I hope some others will chime in here with more knowledge than the little I know

.

isde02 ,

bOOsteN aUdI ,

kendragon ,

gangster

ninjastar · Feb 23, 2018

I see cause I picked up about 7 so-called hybrid azul and 2 kelbiri....so how would one know if he/she picked up high quality fish and how much would 9 babies cost here in the West cost???

I feel the same way to with feeders but they only eat feeders currently and I haven't have them that long in order to start stress then out.

timtk · Feb 24, 2018

ninjastar said:
I see cause I picked up about 7 so-called hybrid azul and 2 kelbiri....so how would one know if he/she picked up high quality fish and how much would 9 babies cost here in the West cost???

I feel the same way to with feeders but they only eat feeders currently and I haven't have them that long in order to start stress then out.

best way to know if you have high quality bass is to buy from a reputable seller like Wes (RareFish) or Jess Rapps (tangledupincichlids) and many others. Otherwise, the only way you'll know is to wait till theyre grown up. Price varies depending on species and batch etc...

ninjastar · Feb 26, 2018

timtk said:
best way to know if you have high quality bass is to buy from a reputable seller like Wes (RareFish) or Jess Rapps (tangledupincichlids) and many others. Otherwise, the only way you'll know is to wait till theyre grown up. Price varies depending on species and batch etc...

Do they have stores located in socal??

Also heres a pic of some of the fish. Sorry for the quality but can someone id them?? Their still to shy to get a good pic.