New to wet dry filters

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th3champish3r3

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 2, 2011
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NYC
I am about to setup my new (well new for me) with a wet dry. It is my first wet dry filter, I have been using canisters. Anway just have a few questions. As far as I know you can have any flow rate on these wet drys as long as you have the right return pump and over flow box?..Is this accurate?

With my setup I plan to have a mag drive return pump with a prefilter running at 1800 gph. On the return line I plan to have a T which I can adjust the flow rate for both sides with and have a 20 watt uv sterelizer connected to the side where I set a slow flow. The other side im planning on making it completely open. On the section where the return pump is im putting an air line to aerate the water.

Also what type of overflow box would you all recomend? Is there any pros or cons to any of them?

Like I said I have never used or setup a wet dry...The advice is appreciated.
 
most over flow boxes are the same, you just set the water level and you are good. nice thing with a wet dry is your tank will always be level and your sump will be where water level drops. and certain sumps are rated for certain flow. im sure whatever you have will be fine at 1800 gph, it just takes some time getting everything adjusted for correct flow rate. an adjustable valve on the output will definately make life easier.
 
th3champish3r3;4786071; said:
what do you mean by the tank will always be level? I dont understand...you mean the water level??

Yes. Because the water can overflow at a certain point, the water cannot go below that point (because the pump in the sump always puts out the same amount of water into the tank). Any evaporation will cause a lowering in water level in the sump, not in the tank.

To make sure you don't flood your house, make sure your return pipe isn't too far into the water. Otherwise, when the pump shuts off, water starts siphoning back down the return pipe into the sump through the pump. I keep mine about half an inch in the water (to prevent a splashing sound). Just set everything up, plug everything in, observe that it runs smoothly, then disconnect the pump and see what happens. If you've done everything right, the water in the tank will drop maybe half an inch as the last of the water goes into the overflow, and your sump will fill up some, but not overflow.
 
th3champish3r3;4786109; said:
or for quieter operation?

I'm new to wet/drys too. My tank is 90g and I set-up a Berliner wet/dry that handles a 125g tank, and a pump that realworld puts out (or up) about 250 gph.

At first when I set it up I was awed by the amount of water it moved! I was like a kid again just sitting on the floor watching the effect. My wife thought I was nuts. THE NOISE WAS LOUD, even with the cabinet doors closed. Then I learned that it would be helpful to add a ballvalve between the aquarium overflow and the input to the sump, and then to slightly close it just a bit. That helped reduce the 'swishing' noise and stop the water level behind the black overflow box (built inside the aquarium) from lowering and raising 1" every several seconds. However, I also did not have an inverted 'S' trap above the sump and the overflow hose went directly and strait down into the sump. I added more hose to make an 'a' loop while installing the ball valve and I think this greatly helped too. Then I had a deep vibration noise from the sump pump (maybe a different brand would make a difference?) so I completely carpeted the inside of the cabinet, including the doors and this eliminated 95% of all the noise. I had nothing else to do while I was waiting for my tank to cycle, and the time allowed me to realy customize the cabinet, and the sump.

One bit of advice: ensure you have enough room in the cabinet not only to hold the sump, but room ABOVE it for plumbing/hosing! I barely had enough.

Now, I'll be adding a UV Sterilizer too. My live aquarium plants just arrived where I work and will be adding them tonight. Life, is good.
 
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