New uv, too much flow?

[probassfisher010]

Just got my 9w coralife uv, and originally planned to hook it up onto the return line of a fluval 206. Hosing doesn't fit the intake, and won't unless I replace the crappy plastic ones with rubber ones. So instead I put a marine land c-220 on the tank and put the uv on this return. The uv is rated 100-200gph, probably 125gph is best for parasites(my ultimate goal, have had recurring bouts with some nasty gill flukes and such)

Now, the canister is rated 220gph, but I've heard that rating is without media. If I stuff the canister full of media, and the fact that its 3 years old, what do you think the gph is? Is there a way to test this? Should I just go buy the rubber hosing tomorrow?

Tank is 55g, thing is rated up to 125.

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[probassfisher010]

Looks like I may have to rethink some things, read the manual, this thing is optimum for killing parasites at 55gph... I may just buy a small pump and run that to it, really liked the idea of a pre filter though...


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[KAWAMIKIE]

Use a small pump with a sponge pre filter on it.

 

[joe jaskot]

A UV sterilizer is no guarantee that your fish won't get gill flukes. If you think your fish have gill flukes, treat with medication.

 

[13razorbackfan]

You are probably fine as far as GPH. Just a guess but that filter, depending on the media, will do roughly half of its stated GPH.

 

[duanes]

You could put a Tee on either of the filter lines to split the flow, and a ball valve on the line to the UV and throttle back its flow. To kill an animal as large as a gill fluke it is going to need to spend time under the 9 watt UV. Flukes are not easy to kill, single celled creatures like bacteria, they needs lots of contact time under the UV to do damage.
Adding Tees and ball valves are very simple operations on vinyl tubing and can be done with a razor bade or sharp knife. You may want to use quick connect valves, for ease in cleaning the UV unit. If the inside sleeve becomes covered in crud or minerals the light becomes ineffective.