Oh the questions you have when looking at going marine!

[Subrwho2]

ive tried searching here, and google for hours and days... and pretty much annoyed my LFS owners so much that they know its me when i call HAH!


anyhow...


I have a 135gallon freshwater setup (currently no fish, but does have bacteria built up) running a 40gallon sump system with overflows.

ive hear'd so many horror stories about marine aquariums, but have just now been finding a lot to be false. hence my interest!

but i need help!


ive heard for my application i would not "need" a protein skimmer, just a UV sterilizer (running it only every other week) and id be fine, ive also heard you HAVE TO HAVE a skimmer......


I was also told all i have to do to convert is get my salinity levels up to the correct point, add live rock, and time. and im set....

im not sure if this is true or not...

also curious , would i take all my bacteria out, and start with new filter pads, or keep them in?


just trying to get an idea of what im looking at, im on the verge of going marine, but taking my time to reasearch



thanks!

 

[gt1009]

A protein skimmer is always awesome on a SW tank, but if you don't have corals you don't need one. A UV is a great addition to any tank, including one like you want to set up. They kill free floating algae and parasites, making your tank cleaner and your fish healthier.

 

[Clay]

A cycled FW tank does not = cycled saltwater tank. You will have to cycle again. Toss a thawed shrimp in and let it go.

 

[mos90]

drain the whole tank and sump. clean everything. i dont know what media u plan to use but i would use new. add an inch or 2 of whatever sand u like. make sure its aragonite based, add live rock, 100 lbs will be fine if your doing a fish only tank.

i always recommend a protein skimmer. uv is optional but can help.

some poeple will add a raw shrimp like clay said to help "jumpstart" the cycle. i like using pure ammonia. but u have to be careful not to add to much.

if possible i would convert your sump to a refugium, it will help keep your nirtates much lower so less water changes.

u really dont need to run filter pads in your sump as the live rock will be most of your biological filtration. filter socks can be nice but need to be cleaned often. i just have a few pads stacked and i rinse them out once a month. my refuge was designed for them coming off the overflow return.

 

[Subrwho2]

awesome, thanks guys!

lol i understand a FW tank cycled doesnt equal a SW tank.

i was trying to see what steps i need to take,

im just sick of hearing ....

SALTWATER SUCKS, ITS SO EXPENSIVE AND EVERYTHING DIES etc etc

it seems theese stories come from the unexperienced that go out, dump money, then somthing or everything dies and they freak out, and give marine a bad rap.


so i have sand in my tank now, but its (S/P) tahitain moon sand. can i just do my salt additive, then once im at the right salinity i can add my live rock? then give it a while to do its thing.... check the tank and im ready????


also very concerned about water changes.... im concerned that when the time comes, i am just unsure of how to keep the salinity levels correct, i under stand the ocean fluctuates a lot, and i realize you mix the salt in a seperate container then add it, but im still having trouble grasping that.

NEWB QUESTION!

iif i have my live rock, and everything is good to go, i have better lights, could i say, buy an annenome or coral? and put it on my rock ???

sorry.



SO OFFICAL UV STERILIZER IS GOOD ENOUGH??? no need for the skimmer????

 

[mos90]

l will say this. salt water is definately more expensive to setup then fresh. but if done properly can actually be less work. i change only 4gal a month in my tank.

1) tahitian moon sand is NOT an aragonite based sand. it will be harder to maintain the higher ph u need for a salt tank. i wouldnt use it.
2) u MUST premix your salt before u add it to the tank and let is sit for at least a few hours. i do mine for 24. when doing water changes i mix 4gals in a bucket,add 2 cups of salt, add a heater and an air stone. let it sit for a few hours and measure salt levels then adjust.
3)use a hydrometer to measure your salt levels . 1.022-1.024 is a good level.
4)base your coral stocking on the lights u have. low,medium,high wattage.
anemones need high lighting.
5) do not add ANY livestock to your tank until it is completely cycled.

i think a skimmer is more important then a uv. especially if u plan to stock corals.

 

[mos90]

also. i highly recommend a refugium.

 

[ar0wan]

...i think a skimmer is more important then a uv. especially if u plan to stock corals.

i agree

and I highly recommend a premix setup for WC
I have a 55gal drum in my garage with a aereated powerhead
when I bring home some RO/DI I can just dump it in
much easier to monitor salinity in large volume
and also gives the salt plenty of time to fully dissolve

I elevated it and put a bulkhead and 3/4" valve on the bottom
so I just bring in a bucket and fill as needed
makes WC as easy as FW

GL
HTH

 

[FLESHY]

I would say that a skimmer would be a better investment than UV...people that NEED UV are compensating for something else that is lacking in their husbandry.

Plus you are less likely to get the things in your h2o that your UV would be removing if you had clean h2o - which a skimmer would help with.

 

[mos90]

i agree to a point. uv does a wonderful job helping reduce algae. it will definately make your water clearer.

sometimes even with proper husbantry it is possible to still have disease problems. a uv can help reduce the chances.

im not sure if there are negitive effects of a uv in a reef tank. i dont have 1 on my salt tank only on my larger fresh tanks.