Ohhhh... water chemistry

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mrgrackle

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Nov 3, 2007
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austin, tx
Heya ;)

I live in Austin, Texas and our water is very high pH. I think mainly due to the fact that it comes from the Colorado River here, which runs over a bunch of limestone as winds it's way through central Texas. I've tested the water down at the river (1 mile away) and from my tap... they both come out 8.5+ pH (hell it could be close to 9. pH but it's hard to tell with my droppy, shakey, match the color game system.)

So the...

General Hardness 10 degrees
Carbonate Hardness 6 degrees

I've got fish (all sunfish) that came from the Colorado so they don't have a problem with the pH, but my system is an aquaponics system (http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121390). That means I don't have a regular filter. The filter for my 300 gal. tank/pond is 150 gal. of gravel filled with plants. Basically it's a hydroponic system that uses dirty fish water as nutrient and then returns clean(er) fish water back into the system. This works great for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate control. I've had my tank set up for a few months now. I don't do any water changes, I just top off water lost due to evaporation and plant uptake. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate all 0.0 mg/l.


Here's my problem. While this water may be suitable for my fish 8.0+ pH water makes it hard for plants to take the nutrients out of the water. I'd like to get the water down to 7.6 pH, this will make all the nitrogen and other trace elements readily available to plant consumption.

What I've done so far is dilute 1 cup of vinegar in a a 55 gal. barrel which brought the barrel water went to 5.0 pH, or lower but that was the low end of my pH kit. I then slowly (over the course of a few days) added the the low pH water to my system. I brought my systems pH down to 7.6-7.8 pH. I'll take it if it's stable.

So now in the mornings my system will start off with 7.6-7.8 pH and then steadily climes throughout the day up to 8.1-8.2 pH by the end of the day. I do have a little algae bloom going on as the stock tank is buried in the ground outside. I've build a gazebo type cover to keep a lot of the sun off of it. The way I understand it the algae will take up CO2 during the day, removing carbonic acid so that pH goes higher. At night the algae respirates and takes up O2 and releases the C02 back into the water where it turns back into carbonic acid, thus lowering the pH again.

I don't think the fish enjoy this pH shift every day. My plants get 8.1+ pH water during the sunlight hours when they should be taking up nutrients. At night the pH drops back down closer to the 7.6 pH they actually want, but I'm guessing it's the wrong time of day for that.


So... do I have this correct for the most part?

What steps can I take to keep my pH closer to 7.6? (more shade to get rid of all the algae? will a pond cover plant like duckweed work or will it respirate just like the algae, causing pH shifts?)

When I top off the water I'll be reintroducing 8.5+pH water to my system. Is it ok for me to figure out how much vinegar it takes to bring this down to 7.6 pH then add the water?

Oh well, just looking for some suggestions and making sure I'm on the right track.

Thanks yall!:popcorn:

Oh, one last thing... I've read that some municipalities take CO2 out of the water to try and keep the carbon content down as it goes through the pipes (to keep it from building up in the pipes?). This will raise the pH but when you aerate it replaces the CO2 and the pH will go back down. I don't use airstones in my system. I've got a 900 gph pump on my 300 gal. tank, the water runs over 150 gal of gravel and comes out the other end at about 6mg/l O2. So, I assume the water's being sufficiently oxygenated/aerated .... ?
 
You would always start adding CO2. Your plants will love it and the increased carbonic acid content will help buffer the pH. Treating all the water before you put it in will keep all the water at the same level and limit swings.
 
your water has a natural buffer in it so messing with it in moderation wont do anything but rollercoaster... co2 will help this and reverse osmosis water top offs will help a great deal
 
Howdy,

mrgrackle;1688143; said:
This works great for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate control. I've had my tank set up for a few months now. I don't do any water changes, I just top off water lost due to evaporation and plant uptake.

What is the conductivity of your tank water vs you tap water? You may find THIS interesting... there's more to water chemistry than what you measured...

HarleyK
 
You mean your doing this... http://www.reefscapes.net/articles/breefcase/kalkwasser.html ;)

I prefer to do things a little slower for the fishes sake (it's how we think around here :D).

Make yourself up a 55g (this size because of your system) drum full of peat (make sure there are no added chemicals in it) and flow all new water and water from the fish thru it. This will take the large swing out of dropping the pH (and reduce hardness & doesn't change the conductivity). And it's a cheap system.

Dr Joe

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If I filter through peat it will remove the general hardness but not the carbonate hardness? I don't want to lose the alkalinity which is 6dKH (2.14) but from what I've read it won't. I don't have a problem with peat discoloring my water but ... I'm trying to do this as sustainably as possible. I'd rather use something local, free, etc. The other is that I've read you have to boil the peat. Boiling 55 gal. of peat is a lot of boiling. Though it would give me an excuse to buy a huge outdoor propane burner (not to boil all 55 gal at once but to be able to do bigger batches faster!)

I like the idea of adding CO2 because my tank is low on CO2. I'm a bit confused though because I've read it will lower the dKH of my tank but also that it won't take the tank below 7.2 pH (or was it 7.4 pH?) Is this correct? CO2 is easy to make anywhere. I filled a 2.5 gal carboy with sugar water, added some yeast, attached a hose and put the other end of it in the bottom of a gravel filled cup. I then put the cup in the bottom of the tank. The idea is that the fermentor produces CO2 and pumps it into the tank. Bubbles get broken up by the gravel which helps dissolve them into the water. The yeast haven't started churning out the CO2 yet but it's set up and in place.

I am worried adding CO2 to the tank will make the algae grow even faster. I was thinking about using duckweed to shade the tank. But, I'm afraid the two large (9") goldfish sharing the tank with the sunfish will eat all the duckweed. They ate a lilly last year and they where smaller then.
 
The fermentor wasn't working yet today so I redosed it with some more yeast. Today it took off, churning out CO2. Yesterday I used some left over wine yeast I had from brewing but I guess it was old. Today I just used good 'ol bakers yeast.

So it was just bubbling away. Like I said, I had the hose going into the bottom of a gravel filled cup. I thought that maybe the gravel would break the bubbles enough to dissolve the CO2 in the water, but no luck. I got rid of the gravel cup and tried an air stone. The air stone worked alright but I broke it :( So I put the CO2 hose into a 2" long piece of 1" diameter pipe stuffed with rockwool. The CO2 passing through the rockwool breaks the bubbles up very finely, more so then the air stone I tried.

I also got some duckweed today and threw it in the tank. Not nearly enough but if it spreads as fast as everyone claims then it should be providing some shade to fight the algae pretty soon. That is of course if it survives the goldfish.
 
thanks cassharper & itzacraze! My CO2 fermentor is working and my water's pH has stayed at it's pre-dawn 7.6-7.8ish pH. It's already 3 in the aftenoon and it's sunny so normally I'd be seeing the pH climb by now. My next question is do I have to keep adding CO2 to the water or once it's be re-CO2'd it'll be fine?

HarleyK - I don't know the conductivity of my water but I'd love to! Is that one of the things that most fish stores will test? I'm guessing that my conductivity would be pretty low since my beans should be sucking all sorts of salty nutrients out of the water. In hydroponics they use conductivity and pH to measure/adjust their nutrient solution. When the conductivity gets to low they dose with more nutrients. Do any of you have suggestions on what sort of conductivity meter is worth it's price?
 
yes, you need to keep adding CO2. A fairly stocked fish tank is usually around 3-5ppm of CO2. It seems like you don't have a real heavy duty/precise system so it is probably around 10-15ppm right now. Once you stop adding, you will see it drop down to original levels.

That is a nice set-up, have you thought about injecting through a pressurized system? I would get a larger tank so you don't have to refill as often (around here refilling most 5-40 lb tanks is about the same price). It might be more to set-up, worth a look.
 
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