OK I'm gonna remove my UGF

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
R

rumblesushi

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 18, 2005
3,113
4
0
44
ENGLAND
On the 1s tank I set up recently I stupidly put an UGF in there.

I'm now going to remove it in favour of a really fast internal canister.

The canister is already in there, with a ****ty old powerhead still keeping the UGF alive.

In a few days I'm gonna rip the UGF out.

So first I need to move the wolf and 2 oscars into a bucket, then what shallI do first?

Scoup out most of the gravel? Then rip out the filter plate, and then syphon out all the **** that disperses into the water? And leave a thin layer of gravel?

What would be the best way of doing it?

Cheers,
JR
 
I would first gravel vac it VERRY Thoroughly..... then AFTER you take the filter out do a 30-50% water change and get the new filter running and then put the fish back in. I would also test the water before I put the fish back in and then for the next few days

Hope it helps
 
I have pulled alot of UGF, from old nasty used tanks.. I usually drop the tank level about half way, then just rip the UGF out. The water will get all nasty and murky, as you should expect. Use a wooden spoon to stir the gravel, and keep all the brown muck 'suspended' in the water. Then just drain the tank 100% so it removes most of that muck.. Put about 10-15g back in, and wait a half hour to let it settle. Whatever Detitrus was left in the tank, will now settle on your new thin layer of gravel, and you can vacuum the rest of it off..

Make sure your other filtation is stable/cycled before you do this, because you will lose a majority of your beneficial bacteria.

Miles
 
There's just no elegant way to do it. I agree with the advice above: drain a lot of water and fish poop with a gravel vac, and start rippin' it up. Expect a hellacious mess, and be prepared for another partial water change later in the week.
 
Remove half the water from the tank and keep them in clean buckets for later use. Then just do as stated above and then replace the water that you have kept. Top up the rest of the tank with clean water and start you new cycled filter... :woot:
 
thanks for the advice. I gravel vac'd some bacteria onto the new canister so as to get the filter kick started, added some stress zyme, and I'll think I'll wait say a week before ripping out the UGF.

Btw - so there is less mess do you think I should scoop out say half of the gravel bit by bit in the space of a week before I rip it out? And maybe do a couple of 15% water changes in that time just to throughly vacuum the gravel?
 
rumblesushi said:
thanks for the advice. I gravel vac'd some bacteria onto the new canister
Click to expand...

I think you would be better to place some of the gravel into the filter, I dont think gravel vaccing into the filter will do much :(

Personally I would leave it at least 2 weeks to make sure the canister filter has been sufficiently colonised by the BB before ripping out your UG.
 
Don't knock UGFs too much. If set up correctly from the start they work great and break down as much waste as a W/D.
I set mine in by covering the plates with pond filter pads. These pads have plastic filaments in them to maintain rigidity. Then, I cover the plates/pads with gravel. This set up keeps the slots from plugging up and provides 800% (figure quoted at a fish convention) more surface area for aerobic bacteria to adhere to. The pads also provide a firm anchoring point for plants. The 4 lift tubes held 2-250 GPH powerheads and 2-300 GPH powerheads discharging to 2 double bio-wheels.
I ran this type of setup on a 240 housing 24 polys for 2 years. I did normal water changes/gravel washes like any other system. When the tank was broken down, to move to a new place, the pads came out only slightly tinted. I had no clouds or sludge to deal with.
 
Oddball said:
Don't knock UGFs too much. If set up correctly from the start they work great and break down as much waste as a W/D.
I set mine in by covering the plates with pond filter pads. These pads have plastic filaments in them to maintain rigidity. Then, I cover the plates/pads with gravel. This set up keeps the slots from plugging up and provides 800% (figure quoted at a fish convention) more surface area for aerobic bacteria to adhere to. The pads also provide a firm anchoring point for plants. The 4 lift tubes held 2-250 GPH powerheads and 2-300 GPH powerheads discharging to 2 double bio-wheels.
I ran this type of setup on a 240 housing 24 polys for 2 years. I did normal water changes/gravel washes like any other system. When the tank was broken down, to move to a new place, the pads came out only slightly tinted. I had no clouds or sludge to deal with.
Click to expand...

I didn't say that they don't have their place but I doubt they can handle as much bio load as a wet/dry.It sounds like you took a lot of pride in yours :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom