Planning on getting an argentine b/w tegu

[Citrinellus]

I've taken an interest in these lately and started researching them. I have a few questions and want to hear some opinions...

-I plan on feeding ground turkey, do you suggest using a calcium supplement without D3 with cod oil or some other combo? I was reading Varnyard's care page and read he used both calc supp without D3 and cod oil.

-Would it be fine if I put a new tegu, probably young, in a 120g tank? Dimensions are 4ft long, 2ft wide, and 2ft high. I'm concerned he would be stressed in such a large tank. Don't worry I plan on building a custom enclosure when he outgrows his tank.

-Does anyone know anybody selling young CB tegus? I was looking on kingsnake and saw LLLReptile has some for $129 each and DTS Herps is selling some for $90 each. But, I've read bad things about DTS and will not buy from them. And LLLReptiles is in CA though and shipping would be steep.

-I would like to buy from Varnyard, but I would like to find some closer to Chicago or neighboring states. If I can't find anyone I will place a deposit for his 2010 season.

-How many inches of cypress much do you prefer using? I've read differing depths.

Thank you for bearing with me and reading my questions

 

[Toby_H]

-I plan on feeding ground turkey, do you suggest using a calcium supplement without D3 with cod oil or some other combo? I was reading Varnyard's care page and read he used both calc supp without D3 and cod oil.

I've used a high grade calcium without D3 for mine and he does fine. I do not use Cod Oil but I do feed him live fish fairly regularly. Recently I haven't had fish for him and I have noticed less graceful sheddings. Fish Oil is the fix for this.

-Would it be fine if I put a new tegu, probably young, in a 120g tank? Dimensions are 4ft long, 2ft wide, and 2ft high. I'm concerned he would be stressed in such a large tank. Don't worry I plan on building a custom enclosure when he outgrows his tank.

I bought my hatchling at 6 weeks when he was 9". He went straight into a 4x2x2 120 gal and did wonderful. Just be sure to offer a substrate it can burry itself in and a hide it can lounge in. I think small animals in large enclosures only 'stress out' when there isn't enough decor/cover.

-Does anyone know anybody selling young CB tegus? I was looking on kingsnake and saw LLLReptile has some for $129 each and DTS Herps is selling some for $90 each. But, I've read bad things about DTS and will not buy from them. And LLLReptiles is in CA though and shipping would be steep.

I bought mine from Bobby Hilly of Varnyard Tegus. From everything I could find before and since that purchase I've been quite happy with him as a breeder/supplier. I would highly recommend him to anyone.

-I would like to buy from Varnyard, but I would like to find some closer to Chicago or neighboring states. If I can't find anyone I will place a deposit for his 2010 season.

You can find satisified customers from him as far as California. I wouldn't worry about the distance of shipping at all...

-How many inches of cypress much do you prefer using? I've read differing depths.

When small (first summer) I used 3~4"... deepen as needed so the Tegu can easily fully burry itself. My long term enclosure is being built to allow up to 12" depth though I suspect 8" will be plenty.


Just to mention, I've been exceptionally satisified with my choice in an Arg Tegu. If kept happy, they are amazing pets.

 

[Citrinellus]

Thanks, I appreciate all the answers. I'll probably go ahead and buy from Varnyard if I can't find a local breeder.

 

[Citrinellus]

Oh, I forgot one thing about taming. Has anyone tried putting an old shirt in their cage for them to get used to your scent?

 

[Toby_H]

I've heard about the theory being used, but did not use it personally... I think it may have some value but other details need to also be considered/addressed...

Birds of Prey are their biggest preditor in the wild. So coming at them from above in a top opening cage will encourage them to be jumpy. A front opening cage will better allow them to see what is coming and decide how to respond.

During mines first summer I put my hands in the cage and fiddled with things daily. Refilling water dish, misting cage, turning mulch over (to balance moisture in mulch). Doing this daily encouraged the Tegu to accept my presence and he quickly warmed up to me.

During mines first summer I handled him out of the cage about 3 times a week. As with any lizard, they are most comfortable when their full body is supported and their legs are free. Mine would climb all over my head and body. I also had a table in my fishroom I would let him walk on and watch me work in the tanks. He did quite well at staying on the table. I would also toss him a small fish every now and then which he loved.

For mines second summer and now into his third, he simply hand tame. If I sit down next to him and ignore him while he is free roaming he will usually climb on me, but if I pick him up he will usually walk off of me. While free roaming I can quickly approach him and pet him and he just looks at me. When in his cage when I open the door he walks to the door and crawls onto me.

I do strongly believe that the happier (happier = minimal stress) the reptile is in it's cage the more receptive to human attention it will be. Last summer my Tegu lived on a 6' x 10' balcony/porch with a 4' x 2' x 2' cage (door open 24/7) and he was the sweetest Tegu I could ever imagine. When I stepped out on the porch he would try to climb my legs seeking attention and when I took him out in the yard for free roaming he never ran from me and didn't resist being picked up.

I've fallen behind completing his 8' x 3' @ 3' cage (currently under construction) and he is less sweet because of it. He is now living in a 4' x 2' x 2' cage but free roams a Tegu proofed 12' x 16' room 12 hours per day about half the days of the week. While I believe free roaming is a good thing, free roaming does not replace the need for a large enclosure.

 

[Toby_H]

I've heard of people using this method and I think it may be of some benefit, but there are other important facts as well...

Birds of Prey are the most common threat to wild Tegus so coming at them from above with a top opening cage will make them feel vulnerable. A front opening cage will allow them to see what's coming and decide how to respond.

During mines first summer I fiddled in the cage daily to create familuarity. Changing water daily, misting cage, rotating mulch, cleaning waste, etc, etc.

During mines first summer I handled him about 3 days a week. He was somewhat flighty the first year and I was discouraged by this. But he has grown into an extremely hand tame animal. As with all lizards, supporting it's body and leaving it's legs free allows it to feel the most comfortable.

I am also very convinced that having a suitable home (minimal stress) will encourage the animal to accept human interaction. If it's stressed by it's home environemnt when apprached it will respond like a stressed animal. If it is comfortable when approached it will be much calmer.

Find the balance between "moving slowly" and "stalking". I've foind jerky motions to cause flight, but I've also found exceptionally slow movements to cause flight. A moderate speed at a steady pace seems to work best for me. This type of movement around the cage regularly will beuild confidence. Then add in briefly petting/stroking the animal here and there. When picking them up scoup them as upposed to wrapping your fingers/hand around them. If it resistes being picked up try to scoup it up and let it stand on your hand/arm while in the cage.

 

[Toby_H]

^^Dang! I thought the first one didn't post so I rewrote the second one... Sorry for repeating myself....

But I guess you can see I'm rather fond of my Gu...

 

[Citrinellus]

Thanks for going through the hassle of writing it a second time. I'm really looking forward to getting one, I can't wait till mine is as tame as yours.