Please help what's wrong with my fish

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holli

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 21, 2023
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Have you tested your water?
Yes
If I did not test my water...
  1. ...I recognize that I will likely be asked to do a test, and that water tests are critical for solving freshwater health problems.
Do you do water changes?
Yes
What percentage of water do you change?
21-30%
How frequently do you change your water?
Every week
If I do not change my water...
  1. ...I recognize that I will likely be recommended to do a water change, and water changes are critical for preventing future freshwater health problems.
I have a long fin green tetra I recently bought and I noticed after getting him the other fish in tank were scratching themselves on the decorations in tank I did some research and increased the water temp. And he broke out like whole body and fins covered with white dots. So I went and bought super ich. Is there anything I can do to help prevent the other fish from getting it and how do I make sure I have got it all out of my 75 gallon tankIMG_20230721_150624.jpg
 
No. Ick is in the tank. Need to treat the whole tank with all inhabitants and hopefully it will work.
If you have any other tanks, make sure to use different hoses, buckets, nets, etc. It can pass very easily from one tank to another.
Good luck!
 
The reason your fish Icked out when you raised the temp, is that raising the temp increases their life cycle (it makes them reproduce faster).
The only thing above, effective against Ick, is salt.
I would not use aquarium salt, I just use plain salt (NaCl), so I use the rock salt from hardware stores.
I can buy 50 lbs, for under $10, and I use 3 lbs per 100 gallons, to raise salinity to at least 3 ppt.
If salinity is under 3 ppt, it doesn't;t have enough osmotic pressure to kill the emerging Ick.
It usually takes bout 3 weeks to wipe out all emerging Ick.
 
Lets try some more accurate facts regarding Ich. Rather than write is all myself, I will copy paste from reputable sources.

From a paper discussing all of the current treatments that have been tried for ich and the dosages and the results.

REVIEW ARTICLE

An assessment of the use of drug and non-drug interventions in the treatment of Ichthyophthirius multifiliis Fouquet, 1876, a protozoan parasite of freshwater fish
S. M. PICÓN-CAMACHO1*, M. MARCOS-LOPEZ2, J. E. BRON1 and A. P. SHINN1
1 Institute of Aquaculture, University of Stirling, FK9 4LA Stirling, UK
2 Marine Laboratory, 375 Victoria Rd, AB11 9DB Aberdeen, UK
(Received 17 June 2011; revised 12 September 2011; accepted 16 September 2011; first published online 14 November 2011)


It has a direct life cycle, which is temperature dependent such that the warmer the water temperature the faster the life cycle completes. The life cycle involves 4 different stages: (1) the trophont, which resides within the surface epithelium of gills, fins and other body surfaces; (2) the protomont, a free-swimming stage
that exits the fish and settles on the substrate to become the encysted tomocyst stage (3) which in turn repeatedly divides by binary fission to produce tomites which are released to the water column. Tomites differentiate into the infective stage (4) the theront, which needs to find a host within a short window to successfully complete the life cycle by penetrating the epidermis and developing into the trophont stage before it dies (Lom and Dyková, 1992; Matthews, 2005). Theronts can survive for up to 92 h at low water temperatures; their survival being inversely proportional to the ambient water temperature (Wagner, 1960; Aihua and Buchmann, 2001).

Re treating Ich- this one applies to aquariums.
long (e.g. 7–15 days in pond culture) duration in-bath treatments which target the free-swimming stages of the parasite (i.e. protomonts and theronts). Of the other two stages, the trophont is protected lying underneath the host surface epithelium (Post and Vesely, 1983) whilst the tomocyst is protected by a resistant coat (Ewing et al. 1983) and as such, are rarely susceptible to treatment.

The reasons treatment takes between 7 and 15 days is that water temperature matters and one needs to have the meds working duting the proper stages.

The above explains why we turn up the temperature. The higher that is possible, the better. However, different fish have different tolerances for maximum temperature. The nature of what we add to treat the ich also matters. Salt must be in a high enough concentration to be effective. AS with heat, tolerance for salinity also varies in different species of FW fish. Similarly some meds work faster than others. The standard chemical treatment is a mix of malachite green and formaldehyde. However, this was outlawed many years ago for use with fish intended for human consumption. However, it is permitted for out ornamental fish.

As a result of the above there have been a large number of other drug, chemical and natural treatments tried for Ich. The study from which I quoted has more information on a variety of ich treatments including dosages how well they worked or failed to work and, if they worked, at what life stages they did so., The paper contains more information in Ich and things tried to eliminate it than most of us ever want to read.
http://dspace.stir.ac.uk/bitstream/1893/10147/1/Picon Camacho et al Parasitology Ich chemo review.pdf

Next, Tetra's Liefeguard likely will zap Ich but it is a pretty caustic treatments one may wish not to use. To decide I suggest your have a read here https://drjohnson.com/whats-in-tetras-lifeguard-product-and-what-does-it-do/
 
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