Plugging drilled overflow hole

[Burtess]

I have an option to purchase a 180gal tank that has been drilled for an overflow.
I will not be running a sump because I will be stacking two 180's on a steel stand and do not have the room.
I could just turn the pipe up or hopefully find a plug for the bulkhead, but what about patching the bare hole with a piece of glass and silicone?
Will this be a reliable, long term fix (I think it will but just checking to make sure)?

I want to make sure my AC110's will fit on each side and will not be obstructed.

Burt

 

[cozmo]

I would just plug the bulkhead in case you ever decide to sell the tank.

 

[Burtess]

I would just plug the bulkhead in case you ever decide to sell the tank.

I assume a plug is more or less a standard size and easy to find? (No experience with drilled tanks / sumps )

Burt

 

[Pharaoh]

Yep. You should be able to find a plug in the plumbing isle of the local hardware store. This is your best option for long term. That way, you can always use it for a drip system if you change your mind.

 

[Oddball]

If it's a glass tank, a piece of same thickness glass and silicone will do just fine. If it's acrylic, a same thickness piece of acrylic and Weld-on bonding agent will work fine. Be sure to place the patch (at least 1/2" wider than the hole being plugged) on the inside of the tank to better withstand the water pressure of a filled tank.

 

[JAFRIAS]

size the plug to your bulkhead n plug it

 

[Toby_H]

I have several drilled tanks that I have plugged by siliconing glass over the hole with long term success...

Overlapping is essential. Here 1/2" minimum was suggested, I would personally go with more than that, but I have no 'science' to back up why...

It was suggested here to go with the same thickness glas as the bottom of the tank. I am very comfortable going with smaller. The 'patch' is only being asked to bridge a gap the size of the hole in the bottom glass... the bottom glass is 'bridging a gap' the full span of the bottom of the tank...

If the patch is applied to the inside of the tank, the weight of the water will be holding the patch in place. Of course silicone will be needed to seal this interface, but there will be little 'force' pressing against the seal.


For reference... about 8 years ago I siliconed a 6" x 6" 1/4" piece of glass over a 2" diameter hole drilled in the bottom of a 90 gal tank. I used the tank for 5+ years before I sold it to a friend who is still using it. The patch has held without leaking and without repair...


PS - removing such a patch isn't very difficult either...