Plumbing emergency and I need help please!!

[Samps]

Ok, here's the skinny...

I have a 750 gal (as most of you know already) and I am having SERIOUS issues with my plumbing/pump.

I had a reeflo 5800GPH running with a 1 1/2" pipe coming from the sump to the pump and a 1" return.

My pump began to overheat and shut down. I thought it was because it was trying to draw more than the pipe coming from the sump was willing to allow.

I upgraded to a 7400 gal per hour and changed the inlet tubing from the sump to the pump to 2" but left the return lines the same @ 1". Now the pump runs for approx. 20 minutes before shutting down from overheating.

Is the return line of 1" TOO small?? I was under the impression that backpressure on the pump was needed to force the water through. Am I wrong or is it that 2" pipe may just be too large for the pump to pull water through without getting significant air trapped in the process??

I really need some help here guys so educated guesses only!

Thanks,

Samps

 

[dr_sudz]

you really don't want to put back pressure on the pumps, the intake and output on the pump should be the same, I would keep my piping the same so as to cause as little stress on it as possible. Do you have proper ventelation for your pump? If it is air cooled then it would be a good idea to make sure that the pump area is not heating up and causeing the pump to over heat. I would switch the pump return lines to 2" if that is what your pump output is.

 

[fishdance]

I dont know the reeflow pump sorry. Are you sure they are shutting down from overheating? Is the pump cabinet enclosed? (too hot?) What head height can the pump push? That will give you an idea what backpressure is too much for it. If it is a backpressure problem then you can add a bypass on your 1 inch return by putting a T join back to the sump. ie dont just throttle the water allowing it to build backpressure, allow excess water to get out and reduce pressure.

Pump manufacturer or distributer should be able to tell you why its shutting down.

 

[Volenti]

These external pumps are designed to avoid dumping waste heat into the water they are pumping. In this suitation given the fact that (contrary to popular belief)[SIZE=-1][/SIZE]centrifugal pumps draw the most power when thay are pumping wide open and the least when the ouput is completly restricted, it's most unlikley that your plumbing configuration is causing the pumps to overheat.

Is the pump very hot to the touch when it cuts out (too hot to touch)

 

[Samps]

Sorry for the VERY late reply guys!

CHOMPERS was nice enough to give me a call at home and help me out.

Turns out that it was a wiring issue as the Reeflo pumps are set up for 220 from the factory. My house is 110 hence the overheating.

Spent all the time and money on a new, larger pump only to find out the one I had was adequate! LOL

Oh well, THANKS for the replies guys and THANKS to CHOMPERS as well!

 

[ercnan]

Sorry for the VERY late reply guys!

CHOMPERS was nice enough to give me a call at home and help me out.

Turns out that it was a wiring issue as the Reeflo pumps are set up for 220 from the factory. My house is 110 hence the overheating.

Spent all the time and money on a new, larger pump only to find out the one I had was adequate! LOL

Oh well, THANKS for the replies guys and THANKS to CHOMPERS as well!

Yep, that would do it. Bet the pump runs even better (and cooler) on the 220 instead of 110.

 

[johnptc]

Sorry for the VERY late reply guys!

CHOMPERS was nice enough to give me a call at home and help me out.

Turns out that it was a wiring issue as the Reeflo pumps are set up for 220 from the factory. My house is 110 hence the overheating.

Spent all the time and money on a new, larger pump only to find out the one I had was adequate! LOL

Oh well, THANKS for the replies guys and THANKS to CHOMPERS as well!

the pipe sizes sound too small.... my 3000 gph run 2 in/2 out

the 7500 gph runs 3 in / 2.5 out

normally the inlet is one size larger than the out and the flow speed in the inlet should be about 5 feet per second ( ideal) but not to exceed 10fps.

the outlet shouldn't be to critical as i assume its very short.

what are the specifics of the pump you are using......manufacturer and model......i will be curious and check the details for you.....

BIG THANKS TO CHOMPERS for being alert !!!!!

 

[johnptc]

according to reeflo website 2.5 inch pipe for 5400 gph !!!


http://www.reeflopumps.com/tipstroubleshooting.html

 

[CHOMPERS]

Actually the plumbing is 2" in and 2" out. It goes into a tee and then is reduced to two one inch pipes.

The symptom of the problem was that it was quickly cycling on and off. When pumps are large enough to need a start capacitor, they usually have a mechanical governor. The governor opens at operating speed to remove the starting cap from the circuit. There is also a bi-metalic switch that serves as overheat protection.

When a dual voltage motor is shipped from the factory, they wire it for the higher voltage to protect against burning the windings. By running it on the 220V circuit but with only 110V, the governor does not open/opens late. This over heats the bi-metalic switch enough to open the circuit. The ambient temp of the motor is not hot enough to keep the switch open, so it quickly cools and starts the motor again.

 

[ercnan]

Actually the plumbing is 2" in and 2" out. It goes into a tee and then is reduced to two one inch pipes.

The symptom of the problem was that it was quickly cycling on and off. When pumps are large enough to need a start capacitor, they usually have a mechanical governor. The governor opens at operating speed to remove the starting cap from the circuit. There is also a bi-metalic switch that serves as overheat protection.

When a dual voltage motor is shipped from the factory, they wire it for the higher voltage to protect against burning the windings. By running it on the 220V circuit but with only 110V, the governor does not open/opens late. This over heats the bi-metalic switch enough to open the circuit. The ambient temp of the motor is not hot enough to keep the switch open, so it quickly cools and starts the motor again.