Plumbing for a 225 Plywood Tank

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iDRINKbLEACH

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 31, 2011
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Miami, Florida
Wow, I am glad that I started this project on a smaller scale. Had I known all that was involved I would have started on even a smaller scale (maybe 100gal) but no big deal not drowning in the weeds yet.

I at the stage where I have to begin considering plumbing and filtration. I was going to go old school and simply drill two or three 1 1/2 inch holes as close to the top as possible and simply overflow into a sump, diy three drawer filter or algae scrubber. Now I am debating the addition of a Durso standpipe. I have one in my 65 gallon and it works well (I love quite tanks). I don't know if the 3 holes near the top is a quite solution. It does eliminate the need for concern during a power outage. Durso standpipe does the same with just a minimal increase in water to the sump. I want to keep thing simple, but not at the expense of doing things well.

Your advise and comments are welcome.

Thanks in advance.
 
Rey777,

Thanks for reply. After searching and reading through a few dozen threads I am more confused than when I first started.

When you say that you are "drilling three 2 inch holes" are these holes in the bottom of the tank or near the top (vertical panel either in rear or side of tank)? I would like to see a diagram of your setup if possible.

O want to drill holes near the top, highest point in tank just below the lip where my top braces are, that way water only comes out when water is pushed in the tank. I believe that at that point the entire flow (gallons per hour and turnover) is driven by pump strength. At this point my biggest concern is sound and how loud that set-up is, will I get a lot of gurgling as water overflows out of the tank versus drilling the bottom of tank and going with Durso overflow (i will only do this if my first option is too loud).

Regards,

Peter
 
Bump..

I am moving this up. I have done several searches and read through a couple of dozen threads and I still can't find a comparable discussion. I can really use the input.

Thanks in advance.
 
I would drill at the very least 3, 2.5" holes so I could use 1.5" bulkheads.

I would center the holes 6" below the waterline, that way you can use street 90's to make overflows, or just put a basket strainer on it to use for canister filters.

I have a 125 gal tank set up with a series of canister filters, i also have a consent drip on the tank with an overflow, i use the same configuration.
 
hmt321 said:
I would drill at the very least 3, 2.5" holes so I could use 1.5" bulkheads.

I would center the holes 6" below the waterline, that way you can use street 90's to make overflows, or just put a basket strainer on it to use for canister filters.

I have a 125 gal tank set up with a series of canister filters, i also have a consent drip on the tank with an overflow, i use the same configuration.
Click to expand...

hmt321, thanks for the reply.

I am a visual learner so I attached a quick drawing I did in Paint. You solution is the one I would like to use, it sounds simple practical and efficient. the street 90's angled up or down will control the water level? I guess the next question is...is it quite. This tank is going in my Florida room and I would hate to have to yell over it. I understand that is is going to make some noise (which I find soothing in a freakish aquariast sort of way), I also understand that I can get more noise from the filter box if I an not careful.

Tank Plumbing Example.JPG

Tank Plumbing Example.JPG
 
there are a few option on how to plumb the tank like this, on each of them i would recommend using a dorso like cap where you can adjust the air intake of the overflow, when you add a ball valve on your return from the sump you should be able to get it pretty quiet with some tinkering.

here is a picture i did in cad:
overflows.jpg

here is a pdf attachment if you cant read the text

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/33839348/overflows.pdf

Method 1,

use street 90's and a length of pipe to adjust waterlevel on overflow, you need to install a T on the back side, then install a cap, drill holes (or fill them) to get the right amount of flow/vs noise. kind of like a dorso

on the return side you must run the pipe over the water line of when the pump is shut off water will siphon back into the sump and potentially flood.

Method 2

This method gives a cleaner look inside of the tank, because all you see is a basket strainer.

the water level is set on the outside of the tank by offsetting the drain up to the water level before it goes down, you still use a dorso like cap to regulate air intake into the overflow.

the return side had to be run like the overflow to prevent a siphon effect and a power outage flood.

overflows.jpg
 
hmt321,

Thanks. Your explanation provides the detail I was missing. I had no idea that it was important to run that back pipe above the waterline to prevent siphoning. You say that you use this on your 125, I will try to get bigger bulkheads in order to increase water flow to the sump. I can always throttle down with a ball valve.

Thanks again.
 
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