Plywood Aquarium Help

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Q

Quin

Feeder Fish
Aug 24, 2013
4
0
0
Indiana
Hey folks,

I've been spending the past week or so researching plywood aquariums, but I cannot seem to find info on wether or not the acrylic sheet has to still be the same thickness as a solid acrylic build. I am wanting to build a 96" x 36" x 24" minimum tank to house a blue arrowana. I would prefer to make it 30" high instead, but according to calculators I have used, it suggests a one inch thick sheet. Because one inch is so much more expensive than what I would be looking at for a 24" tank, I was wondering if I could get away with a thinner sheet because it is braced all around with plywood and not relying on a sealed corner joint for support like a conventional acrylic tank.

Also, my plan was to have the plywood sealed with epoxy paint rather than a liner, but still have a plasic liner in the bottom to prevent scratches in the pain from cleaning. I was hoping I could find 4 x 10 oak plywood, if such a thing exists, and have the front, back, and bottom extend past the inside "sides" of the tank so I could have a framework on the ouside for added support. Can I use 3/4 plywood for this, or do I need one inch and a framework in the back as well?

If you see errors in my plans I am completely open to suggestion. I have experience in carpentry and am a journeyman toolmaker, so I trust my handywork, but you folks know plywood aquariums and I don't, so I will glady take any advice I can get.

As a completely secondary point, if there are objections about my tank size for an aro I would like to know that as well.

Thanks
 
If the point of the liner is to protect from scratches, then FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) might work better for you. It comes in 8 foot lengths and if you get it cut to size, it should work better than liner for protection. It's also really inexpensive.

Also, I'm not sure I've heard of oak plywood, but most people seem to be using 3/4" (possibly less) in 24-30" high builds (sides and bottoms). 1" sounds much thicker than I've seen. 3/4" plywood walls with external framing (e.g., 2x4's spaced 8' to 12" on center) seems to work for a lot of designs. A lot use fiber glass or some other materials for strengthening the joints and providing added resistance to deflection.

You don't need thicker on the base as long as you are fully supporting under the tank. Check around the DIY Tanks section searching for plywood or check the stickies and you'll see lots of plans and builds.
 
Hi,
I will be starting a ply build at the end of October. It will be 96x24x30.
For safety sake I will be using 1" ply and 3/4" plate glass. Acrylic would be cheaper for the viewing panel if I could use the same thickness, but I am very concerned about bowing. The ply will be sealed with epoxy, with matting on the joints for strength.
Not sure if any of that helps.
Robbie.
 
I have been doing a bit of planning. The tank will be 96x36x30"-450 gallons, but the glass or acrylic will be supported four inches high from the bottom all the way across the front, and supported three inches on the sides. The top is going to be very solid to resist an aro's suicide attemps, and the back is going to be very solid plywood with 2X4 framing. I am overbuilding the plywood frame to put it lightly. So my point is, the glass or acrylic will be supported all the way around, and more than usual at the top. However, my next question is that I keep seeing on acrylic thickness calculators the issue of wether or not the acrylic is properly braced. Does this mean top bottom and sides, or is this suggesting a verticle rib in the center to counter bowing? Weight is not an issue, its going in my dad's shop and he has his own fork truck, so I'm wondering if I should use glass instead. I want to avoid a center rib if possible. However, when you add the arowana factor, should I stick with acrylic if it is going to be beating on the glass?
 
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