plywood top on stand (finished) ..styrofoam or no?

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lp85253

Polypterus
MFK Member
Mar 12, 2009
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cinder block stand .. plywood is finished 50"x20"(like a tabletop.. in essence it's a 1-1/2 inch thick table without legs ).. edges have been painted with latex to avoid moisture .. it's 2 separate 3/4 inch pieces of ply glued together.. surface as i said is *flat* and finished with some sort of waterproof laminate, plywood is birch.. aqueon standard trimmed 75 gallon 48"x18".. so foam or no? 1/2 inch? 1 inch?..or no foam .. i'm leaning heavily towards no foam...
 
No foam!
 
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Foam...always foam...or even rubber sheet.
 
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i was thinking *after i posted*(and i already have extra ply and foam) .. bricks on bottom , then 1. piece of 3/4 inch ply sheet .. then 1" of foam ..then the finished 1 -1/2" ply "tabletop" then tank directly on tabletop... sound about right?
 
Plastic rimmed tanks do not need foam underneath them. Do be sure the tank is setting flat on the plywood though.
 
purpose of foam in this scenario?

Same as for any other tank; it will compensate for any slight irregularities in the surface of the tabletop, or even in the tank bottom itself. It's cheap, easy to install, can never cause harm...and might be helpful.

If the tank has a rimmed frame as D deeda commented, I actually prefer a thin rubber pad, rather than foam. You can buy a length of rubber baseboard moulding or a small piece of rubber mat, cut it into strips to run around the perimeter of the tank and use glue to tack it down while you place the tank. When I use columns of concrete blocks for the legs of a stand, I will also place a layer of the stuff on top of the blocks, under the top surface of the stand. Concrete blocks are far from perfectly identical; they have plenty of little imperfections for which this will compensate.
 
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i can see where the foam may help below the*brand new* 1-1/2 in. plywood tabletop but i can't imagine needing it on top.. i might be wrong though ..
Plastic rimmed tanks do not need foam underneath them. Do be sure the tank is setting flat on the plywood though.
this was always my understanding .. as long as the stand top is flat and at least almost level ( less than any part of the bubble outside the lines).. this plywood sheet is just so flat i can't imagine needing the foam directly under the tank.. i do kinda like the idea of using it under the ply as kind of a shock absorber and cushion ...

thanks to both of you for helping out with your thoughts , i very much appreciate it..?
 
Same as for any other tank; it will compensate for any slight irregularities in the surface of the tabletop, or even in the tank bottom itself. It's cheap, easy to install, can never cause harm...and might be helpful.

If the tank has a rimmed frame as D deeda commented, I actually prefer a thin rubber pad, rather than foam. You can buy a length of rubber baseboard moulding or a small piece of rubber mat, cut it into strips to run around the perimeter of the tank and use glue to tack it down while you place the tank. When I use columns of concrete blocks for the legs of a stand, I will also place a layer of the stuff on top of the blocks, under the top surface of the stand. Concrete blocks are far from perfectly identical; they have plenty of little imperfections for which this will compensate.
what do you think of my potential set up i described in post #5 ? .. brick then 3/4 inch pine ply then 1" foam , then 1 1/2 *very flat * finished (like a dinner table)ply then tank? thanks...
 
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