so i just pick picked up a pre-drilled 150 i really dont want to use the hloes so i want to plug them i see some have patched the holes with small pieces of glass but i would rather plug them can someone walk me through this process
pre drilled reef ready 150
- Thread starter mcayla cierra
- Start date
ok so i have a marineland tidepool sump with bio-wheel i'm thinking of using on this tank so plumbing the tank down to the sump is gonna be very new to me. there are 3 1.5'' holes drilled in this tank 2 are on the side 12'' apart and 3'' from the bottom of the tank the third is on the back opposite corner 1'' from the bottom. for the intake i want to install bulkhead fittings with strainers in the 2 holes on the side. could i drill two holes in the stand under the holes so i dont have to wrap the intake plumbing around to the back.i just dont want to weaken my stand. then for the return in the back hole i'm thinking of running a pvc pipe up to the top and out a 24'' spraybar made out of pvc.
Without pics it's hard to imagine what you are dealing with, but I think I may understand. For the stand, as long as your only cutting through the skin you should be fine. It doesn't add a ton of structural support. Just stay a few inches away from corners and edges to keep the risk of cracking the wood down. I don't know if side holes are going to be a pain for you... The big thing is having PVC on the inside do a ninety degree bend straight toward the surface and then the top of the pipe= your water level. You will need that for a sump otherwise you may drain the whole tank in a power outage. I hope this helps a little.
By that I am referring to the side holes of the tank, not the stand. Sorry if it's confusing. The pipe I am referring to running up would be the drain pipe in the tank the takes water to the sump.
Without a pic it's hard to say, but drilling a few holes in the stand should not weaken it. Most of the weight pressure is on the corner braces.
I have tanks with holes drilled on the bottom and on the sides for stand pipe or elbow overflows, they work great with sumps.
the tank above is drilled on the bottom and uses 2 standpipes.
the tank below has to elbow type on the back drilled about 4 inches from the top of the tank
I have tanks with holes drilled on the bottom and on the sides for stand pipe or elbow overflows, they work great with sumps.
the tank above is drilled on the bottom and uses 2 standpipes.
the tank below has to elbow type on the back drilled about 4 inches from the top of the tank
Basically you put your overflow on the outside of the tank. This keeps ugly PVC out of site. Put the "T" fitting at the water line and the water will spill over and down to the sump.
The first pictures is my 120 and I added a valve at the bottom so I can drain the tank for quick easy water changes.
The first pictures is my 120 and I added a valve at the bottom so I can drain the tank for quick easy water changes.