Proposed variation on DIY PVC overflow

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Native K

Feeder Fish
Jan 28, 2013
3
0
0
Ohio
Hello everyone, first time poster here. Ive been a planted tanker for 5 years or so now. Dropping by here because i plan to build a monster tank, even though the fish wont be monsters :) There seems to be a lot of DIYers here and i need some thoughts a filtration system. My dream tank is going to be a native darter and dace/minnow river tank, sometime in the next few years anyway. I want to have everything planned out when the time comes to build it.

Since its a stream/river tank, it needs to have current flowing from one end to the other in a continuous loop. Easily done with powerheads and pumps, but i do not want to use them in the tank since it will raise the water temp and that is not good for these type of fish. I dont want the holes or at least not all near the surface so there isnt a lot of blow back off of the sides of the tank to cancel out the current. So the problem is getting intakes near the bottom of the tank without worrying about disaster during a power outtage.

I also plan to run a drip system to eliminate water changes by hand and hopefully keep the tank cooler this way. That means no closed loop system.

Ive discussed this a little over on theplantedtank and havent got a solution yet, but I have an idea using a DIY PVC style overflow. If the intake was way down towards the bottom of the tank, would it be possible to place a one way valve facing inwards to the pipe(or even just another small intake hole) higher up on the intake, allowing for a siphon break at a more managable water level?
 
you could still use a closed loop system, you would just need to install a drain near the top of the tank to drain off your added water.

If you use the diy overflow you can use the height of the tee leading to the sump to limit how far it will drain. you can remove the upright pipe inside the tank with this so it drains from the bottom of the tank.

If you never want to have to worry about losing prime and want to keep the inside of your tank free of plumbing you can install bulkheads on one side. Add 90s up to tees at your desired water level and run from the tees to the sump.


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I had thought about that but i figured once the siphon started, the water pressure would force water out of the pipe anyway no matter how high the T was. And wouldnt the siphon be dependant on the intake level and not the output?

Im a noob to sumps so excuse me if my questions sound stupid
 
A friend of mine had a tank with corner overflows, in order to use a more powerful pump than the standard weirs could handle to the sump, he cut vertical slits into the overflows mid tank, and low in the tank and it worked very well. Because the slits were butter knife edge thin, and the weirs at the surface were normal size, water level stayed at a surface level he wanted.
 
I had thought about that but i figured once the siphon started, the water pressure would force water out of the pipe anyway no matter how high the T was. And wouldnt the siphon be dependant on the intake level and not the output?

Im a noob to sumps so excuse me if my questions sound stupid

the water level will not drop below the level of the tee leading to the sump. the overflow will run fewer gph using the tee to control the water level though


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Since you are planning in advance just plan on doing it right. Drill the tank!

I couldn't figure out if you are planning on running a sump? If the DIY overflow pipe is just for draining off the drip water change I would be very concerned about loosing the siphon. Drill the tank and you will never have to worry about loosing siphon!
 
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