I have a 2400gph pump for my 120.. how do I figure out what size plumbing I should use. It has dual overflows and I plan on running two inlets into the wet / dry then the pump will have a T for the two outlets into the tank. Would dual 3/4" outlets (to the tank) be good enough for the 2400gph pump? I already have bulkheads for that size. If not thats cool, I just have no idea how to figure out the sizes.
Pump size / plumbing size
- Thread starter Mudfrog
- Start date
You can put a ball valve after your pump and partially close it if your pump is faster than your drains.
If your intake to the sump is gravity fed you will need large plumbing to keep up with that pump. What size are the bulkheads in your overflows? If they are not large enough your pump will drain your sump.
Regarding your returns, Flow = Velocity multiplied by the Area of the cross section of your pipes (Q=V*A so V=Q/A). The 3/4" return will handle the flow but the water will be coming out of your returns really fast, it will make the water in the tank very turbulent.
two things i would consider:
1) get a smaller pump, one better suited to the size of your overflows.
2) plumb the pump in a way that it can recirculate returning water back to the sump
Regarding your returns, Flow = Velocity multiplied by the Area of the cross section of your pipes (Q=V*A so V=Q/A). The 3/4" return will handle the flow but the water will be coming out of your returns really fast, it will make the water in the tank very turbulent.
two things i would consider:
1) get a smaller pump, one better suited to the size of your overflows.
2) plumb the pump in a way that it can recirculate returning water back to the sump
it might take a 1.5" or 2 1" overflows to keep up, but you can put a valve after the pump to slow it down. It'll actually put less stress on the pump and it'll use less power.
The part you're trying to ID is half of a union fitting. You can get them pretty much anywhere and you should be able to half of a new one to the one you already have.
The part you're trying to ID is half of a union fitting. You can get them pretty much anywhere and you should be able to half of a new one to the one you already have.
Ok, I was told putting a ball valve after the pump will cause the pump to burn out, I actually already have a ball valve after the pump for my testing, but I left it open. I plan on keeping this pump so if bigger plumbing is in order then I'll go with that, I just wanted to try to use what I currently have.
The bulkhead for the drain to the wet dry uses 1-1/4" PVC pipe, and I'm plumbing the two of them individually so I'll have two 1-1/4" inlets into the wet / dry.
But as long as the ball valve behind the pump will not burn it out I should be ok I think, this is the ball valve I have hooked up.
The bulkhead for the drain to the wet dry uses 1-1/4" PVC pipe, and I'm plumbing the two of them individually so I'll have two 1-1/4" inlets into the wet / dry.
But as long as the ball valve behind the pump will not burn it out I should be ok I think, this is the ball valve I have hooked up.
That pump is going to turn over the tank's volume 20 times every hour. That's just doing the simple math. It shouldn't be difficult to see that this pump is wrong for that tank.
CHOMPERS;1908363; said:
I'm fully aware it's going to be 20x, thats why I plan on reducing the flow with a ball valve. If you had purchased a tank that came with a brand new pump wouldn't you try to reduce it's flow as opposed to spending $200 for a new pump?
