what about the filter media? Should you leave it...im guessing you will say it needs to be scoured as well.
Quarantine Tank
- Thread starter Bleeding
- Start date
I have not owned a "quaratine tank" since I could remember.....Quarantine tanks are simply feeder tanks....
Bleeding;664512; said:
You mostly need to hold biological filtration (sponges, bio-balls etc.). It is standard practice NOT to run carbon in a QT due to the possible need for medicating.
And as far as treating QTs as feeder tanks, that is fantastic as long as you don't add new fish to an existing tank instead. A QT is an inexpensive, intelligent way to avoid messy disasters.
J
I totally agree... I have had a few "messy disasters" from not using a quarantine.
I know you prolly want a pretty QT if it's sitting out, but gravel would be a huge pain in the behind, and using meds without actually knowing if the fish is sick can create some reasonably resistant parasites/fungus/etc. Trust me, I've seen it happen. I would just leave it bare but with a hide spot.
Kudos on doin things "according to procedure", tho.
I know you prolly want a pretty QT if it's sitting out, but gravel would be a huge pain in the behind, and using meds without actually knowing if the fish is sick can create some reasonably resistant parasites/fungus/etc. Trust me, I've seen it happen. I would just leave it bare but with a hide spot.
Kudos on doin things "according to procedure", tho.
A quarantine tank should be sterilized between batches of fish. So bleach the gravel, the filter (throw out the media), the heater, the tank, everything. If you have plants, throw them out. It doesn't take long.
When you put it back together, quick cycle the tank by taking some of the guts out of another filter. Yeah, that means you have to plan in advance to get the new media cycled in another tank.
When you put it back together, quick cycle the tank by taking some of the guts out of another filter. Yeah, that means you have to plan in advance to get the new media cycled in another tank.
Qt is a hospital. No plants, no gravel. Okay maybe a sunken ship if you HAVE to.
Use the same filter as on one of your other tanks so you can quick cycle the tank by planting an established filter every time you start over again with a clean slate.
You can also clean out your filter after you are done quarantining and then stick the filter on an existing tank so it can cycle between use. That's what I do. I keep a few floating plastic plants/pvc pipes that are easy to clean up when I'm done using them.
Quarantine
A good quarantine consist of observation and proactive treatment lasting at least two weeks, prefer a month or even longer.
1)Observe prospective new fish at the LFS very closely, physical appearance/condition, level of activity, interaction with tankmates, respiration, feeding and etc...
Any dead/unhealthy fish in the tank or adjacent tank(s), don't buy any.
2)Before introducing to QT, give'em a strong salt dip/bath, this will force many external parasites to drop off the host.
3)QT should be kept at 87'-88'F and salted at at least 1tblspn per 5gal, this will eradicate any ICH and some parasites.
4)Feed at least one week with antibacterial food and then at least one week with anti-parasite/protozoan food.
5)During this time observe closely for anything indicative of illness/infestation, treat accordingly with meds or just cull.
6) I'd only do a complete tear down/sterilization for diseases like TB, Columnaris/Flexibacter and other such highly contagious/tenacious nasties.
For the most part if a problem is treated successfully, it is eradicated completely, no sterilization necessary.
A proper QT is alot of work.
A good quarantine consist of observation and proactive treatment lasting at least two weeks, prefer a month or even longer.
1)Observe prospective new fish at the LFS very closely, physical appearance/condition, level of activity, interaction with tankmates, respiration, feeding and etc...
Any dead/unhealthy fish in the tank or adjacent tank(s), don't buy any.
2)Before introducing to QT, give'em a strong salt dip/bath, this will force many external parasites to drop off the host.
3)QT should be kept at 87'-88'F and salted at at least 1tblspn per 5gal, this will eradicate any ICH and some parasites.
4)Feed at least one week with antibacterial food and then at least one week with anti-parasite/protozoan food.
5)During this time observe closely for anything indicative of illness/infestation, treat accordingly with meds or just cull.
6) I'd only do a complete tear down/sterilization for diseases like TB, Columnaris/Flexibacter and other such highly contagious/tenacious nasties.
For the most part if a problem is treated successfully, it is eradicated completely, no sterilization necessary.
A proper QT is alot of work.
