Questions about UV lights

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epond83

Plecostomus
MFK Member
Nov 10, 2009
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Duvall, WA
So I'm looking at different UV lights to kill parasites. I believe that 90,000μw/cm² is required to kill parasite. Aqua UV claims to achieve this with their Classic 8 watt model at 214 g.p.h. However Turbo-Twist says there 18watt model will kill parasites at 110 g.ph. (unsure of the μw/cm² at this rate)

I was wondering why the difference? With bulb changes once a year the Aqua UV would be cheaper within 3 years without even factoring electricity. It is really that much of a better product?

 
Watts X GPH = Deathrate

I`ve seen a number of different figures thrown around.
10 GPH per watt for maximum carnage is the rate I have seen as most effective.
Higher flow rates will work for organisms such as algae, but to squash the micro baddies, the above has worked for me.
 
Yeah that's kinda what i was thinking was just wondering how Aqua UV is getting 90,000μw/cm² with a low wattage. And 90,000μw/cm² seems to be the high end where everything dies, which is about the 10gph per watt for most others.
 
contact surface also plays a factor. a larger unit can with less wattage can be just as affective. maybe thats how aqua can get it done with lesser wattage. i know my 25w is 20" long and the build in wiper comes in handy. their 8w is 16" long.

turbo twist unit are smaller and have much less contact surface.

i run my 25w at 400gph and my 15w at 200..
 
yeah that is a good point about lenght and therefore contact time.

Also i was noticing different bulb types, which means watt per watt isn't the same. The twist uses PC lighting where i believe Aqua UV uses T-5 bulbs which would also explain the 90,000μw/cm² rating with a high flow then others. I figure if they claim 90,000μw/cm² with 8watt at 214 gph that this 'hard' figure can't be far off, since most others give more vauge figures.
 
i talked to aqua tech and they were 100% sure the ratings were accurate and recommended size for gallonage. so i just followed what they said for gph. i havent had any illness since i added it 10months ago. i run it about 8 hours a day at night. the wiper comes in handy. u dont have to take it apart to clean the sleave.
 
well that is good to hear. They say the bulbs are rated for 14 months I think? Is that on continuous use? meaning that if ran 8 hours a day the bulb would last 42 months?
 
FYI - Manufacturers of aquarium products can, will and do exaggerate… for easy examples read recommendations on heater or filter size per aquarium size…
 
I’ve been using UV lights for quite a few years and for 4 years of that I’ve been raising/breeding Blue Dempseys which are well known to be prone to parasitic illness.
 
I use a formula of:
1W per 10 US Gallon of tank volume…
10 gph per 1W of (actual) flow rate through the UV…
Replace the bulb once per year (Jan 1 at my house)
 
Flow Rate x Wattage = Deathrate is a very good simple view point… but additionally...
 
Contact time - this is the amount of time the parasite is exposed to UV rays. Lower flow rates allow for longer contact times. Longer tubes might increase contact time.
 
UV’s water volume - The more volume a UV light holds, the longer the ‘contact time’ of the unit at a given gph. A longer unit with a low volume will not yield a longer contact time.
 
Distance from Bulb - This is a detail I hear very little mention of. UV rays dwindle very very quickly when passing through water. Thus a parasite that is 2” from a bulb may be virtually unaffected when a parasite .5” from the bulb is killed. So a fat UV unit will be less effective at a given contact time.
 
Prefilter - UV lights come standard with a quartz sleeve. This sleeve is “scratch resistant” but not “scratch proof”. Small particles can cause a hazing on the sleeve which will drastically inhibit the UV rays. Also particles will cast little shadows within the UV unit. If you are pushing the max volume through the UV light to kill parasites, these little shadows can be enough to allow the parasite to survive.
 
Bulbs - Bulb quality can and does make a difference also. The UV-C emitting quality is given to bulbs by including a gas and possibly a powder to the bulb during manufacturing. Naturally the volume/purity/quality of the additives will impact both bulb potency and life of the bulb. Another point to consider, the UV quality of the bulbs does not stop abruptly. It will slowly dwindle every minute the bulb is on. Thus on day 1 it will be far more effective than on day 200. The more you maximize your flow rate the more frequently you will have to replace the bulb to remain effective against parasites.

Continuous -vs.- Intermittent Use - Since the UV quality dwindles with use, running it intermittently is a logical consideration. But it should be known that the additives dwindle incredibly fast at the moment of ignition. It has been suggested to me that 12 on /12 off will be slightly lengthen the life of a bulb, but 8 on / 8 off will shorten the life span of a bulb. This information was the conclusion between myself a 30+ year union electrician (my father) and an electrical engineer (my uncle).

 
 
Again, be leery of what manufacturers tell you. I am not suggesting every word out of their mouth is a lie, but I am suggesting they will stretch the truth to make their product sound superior to their competitors. For example, if they find one species of parasite that is easily killed by UV-C rays, they may use this parasite in their tests. This could allow them to honestly say their light is effective against parasites at a given rate… when in reality it is only effective against this single species at that rate…
 
My suggestion is “error on the side of safety” … don’t push your unit…
 
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