QUICK! Basement plumbing advice...

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MandM614

Gambusia
MFK Member
Sep 23, 2011
247
0
16
Colorado
VERY LONG, DRAWN out story short, my original contractor bailed on finishing my basement about halfway through already 4-5 months delayed. We started in February, told we would be done by March, now it's November and I still don't have a finished basement.
So now we've hired someone new and made some changes to the plans. Originally I was going to have a space for a 180-220 tank, and a 10' x 3' space. Now we've decided to move my wet bar but the walls are already finished. This is what I'm left with..

Wall Plumbing.jpg

This was the original spot for the wet bar, but having moved that, this is the new space for one of my tanks. Now, I want to put in hot and cold water spigots and a drain. Since it will be hidden by the stand, I figure it's an awesome and simple way to do water changes. Are there any other options? Anyone with any cool ideas? I told the new contractor to work on this last so that I can consult my "fish community" first. Please let me know what you guys think. I would love to have some kind of cool set-up as I only use canisters and HOB's right now.

Wall Plumbing.jpg
 
Run a sump setup. You don't need the hot side run a ball valve on the cold to a drip emitter into the top of tank. Run a small submersible pump in the sump hooked up to a float switch. Run a line from that pump into that capped sink drain. Simple auto changer
 
Depending on how much $ you want to drop on the systm, I would have him install a two handle thermostatic and volume control valve. It's basically a shower valve that allows you to control flow via one handle and temperature via the other. With this valve, you can determine where the temperature control valve should be to achieve 80F (or whatever temp you keep your tanks at) and never touch it again...set it and forget it...so you can then just use the volume/flow control valve and have 80F water ready to go (once the cold water is purged from your lines). This would make life much easier than having the fiddle with two seperate hot and cold valves to get them to 80F during each water change.

I would go with something like this: http://www.faucetdirect.com/america...!12480295763&gclid=CPPUzqiB-rMCFYN_QgodngcAUQ

Valve.jpg

Valve.jpg
 
Run a sump setup. You don't need the hot side run a ball valve on the cold to a drip emitter into the top of tank. Run a small submersible pump in the sump hooked up to a float switch. Run a line from that pump into that capped sink drain. Simple auto changer

Ok, so noob with any kind of plumbing, been in the hobby a year and all I use are canisters and HOBs...can I please get the idiot version of this and what I would need? Thanks for the reply by the way
 
Depending on how much $ you want to drop on the systm, I would have him install a two handle thermostatic and volume control valve. It's basically a shower valve that allows you to control flow via one handle and temperature via the other. With this valve, you can determine where the temperature control valve should be to achieve 80F (or whatever temp you keep your tanks at) and never touch it again...set it and forget it...so you can then just use the volume/flow control valve and have 80F water ready to go (once the cold water is purged from your lines). This would make life much easier than having the fiddle with two seperate hot and cold valves to get them to 80F during each water change.

I would go with something like this: http://www.faucetdirect.com/america...!12480295763&gclid=CPPUzqiB-rMCFYN_QgodngcAUQ

View attachment 853878


This looks awesome...what else would I need? this is just a temp controller?
 
Anybody have anything else to add? I don't have much time to decide on this because the basement is almost finished now

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So I have until Wednesday to figure out what I'm going to do with this setup. If anyone has anything else to add please let me know.
 
You will need to run a sump. Ditch the canisters and hobs. Search for sump setups. You can build one very cheap. They are much more efficient in my opinion. Once the tank is running, You will go to Home Depot or lowes in the garden center and get a drip emitter. 1 gph will be fine. So you will put a ball valve on your cold water line and hook up the drip emitter to top of tank. Put a small submersible pump hooked to a float in the sump and pipe it to the old sink drain. When the water hits a certain level in the sump, it will trigger float and pump water into drain. So you will have constant flow of fresh water into tank.
 
You will need to run a sump. Ditch the canisters and hobs. Search for sump setups. You can build one very cheap. They are much more efficient in my opinion. Once the tank is running, You will go to Home Depot or lowes in the garden center and get a drip emitter. 1 gph will be fine. So you will put a ball valve on your cold water line and hook up the drip emitter to top of tank. Put a small submersible pump hooked to a float in the sump and pipe it to the old sink drain. When the water hits a certain level in the sump, it will trigger float and pump water into drain. So you will have constant flow of fresh water into tank.

Thanks for the reply, sounds like something I can handle. So nothing special needed for the actual plumbing from the house. Just faucets for the hot/cold and the drain.
 
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