Quiet overflow and canister questions

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sayersweb

Exodon
MFK Member
Jun 19, 2012
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23
Sugar Land, Texas
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I've yet to see how overflows are plumbed and have a couple of questions.

If you want to do the quiet (Herbie?) approach, how many holes do you need drilled in each overflow? I know there are two required for the main and safety lines supplying the sump, but I don't understand how water is returned to the aquarium. Is there a third hole inside the overflow for the return?

When you have canisters, how is the water sourced to and returned from them? I'm guessing you cannot use the overflow to source the canister. I saw at a LFS that they have additional holes in the bottom of the aquarium that they place a short riser tube with a strainer to source the canister. I did not pay attention to how the water was returned. I'm guessing it is a good idea to pull water from the bottom of the aquarium to send to the canisters.

Thanks in advance for any insight.
 
herbies have two out of the tank, one in. you can do a herbie if you only have 2 holes by running the line in over the top of the tank.
 
Okay, that helps, thank you.

I'm still curious how it typically works. Is that second hole usually for the return?

Also interested in how canisters fit into the mix.

herbies have two out of the tank, one in. you can do a herbie if you only have 2 holes by running the line in over the top of the tank.
 
Most likely I am doing a new build.... so I am trying to figure out how to best set things up.
 
Still wondering about canisters... I'm thinking I would have the two overflows feed a sump and then two canister filters to pull water from the bottom of the aquarium (using additional holes/bulkheads?). Does that make sense? Seems modern aquariums no longer use air to stir the water at the bottom of the aquarium, I cannot think of any other way to remove ammonia and debris.
 
one of the best ways to control nitrates i've seen is the continous water change method. i love it and have been very happy since i installed my drip system. this just takes a continous flow of new water into the tank and an overflow for "dirty" water to drain away. some folks use the waste water to water gardens, trees or their lawn. i drip about 50 gallons a day ( my tank is 500 gallons) so 10% per day water change. about once every 2 or 3 months i clean the glass and siphon off the bottom to get the gravel clean, my drift wood seems to be flaking off?
 
That sounds intriguing... do you not run any filtration? Are you drawing from a well, thus no chlorine?

I would need to have a plumber install water supply and drain lines. I do have whole-house filtration and water softening so that would work out well for the type of aquarium I plan to set up.


one of the best ways to control nitrates i've seen is the continous water change method. i love it and have been very happy since i installed my drip system. this just takes a continous flow of new water into the tank and an overflow for "dirty" water to drain away. some folks use the waste water to water gardens, trees or their lawn. i drip about 50 gallons a day ( my tank is 500 gallons) so 10% per day water change. about once every 2 or 3 months i clean the glass and siphon off the bottom to get the gravel clean, my drift wood seems to be flaking off?
 
yes, i do have a well. the supply line is easy, you can use 1/4" poly hose and a connector to you cold water supply like what is used for an icemaker on your fridge http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...BA8A5D1BFFCD31EBD0596B98E3890EAE7&FORM=IDFRIR
i would also put a 1/4" gate valve to adjust the drip rate close to where the water goes into you tank.
the overflow/drain is a little more involved, i have a 1.5" bulk head drilled into the side of my sump below the normal water level. i put a threaded 90 elbow in the sump and turned the opening to adjust the height of the water in my sump. mine was to low so i added a short piece of PVC to extend the drain opening up higher and get more water depth in my sump. from the outside of the bulk head just find a way to get the water out of the house. either to a sewer line or to the outside to water plants or your yard.
in addition to the drip system i use filter socks, biobale, http://www.marinedepot.com/CPR_BIO_...sf_Bio_Filter_Media-CPR-CR1411-FIFMBO-vi.html, and bioballs in part of my sump. maybe overkill but it's working so far.
here is a link to my build, i need to update it but you can see where i drilled my sump http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?444364-Filtration-for-my-500
 
Sarmo - Thank you for all of the info... I learned a lot from reading through your entire thread. Do you still need to hold down the driftwood? Also, have you had any problems with the blue botias picking on the clowns? When I had them they became quite aggressive as they got bigger.
 
thanks, i really need to get some new pics posted. i still have all the rocks on the drift wood. i'm not sure it's needed but they make great hiding places for the smaller fish. one of the pieces is still floating so the rocks are probably still needed.
the blue botias have been leaving my clowns alone. they seem to hide more than they are out. i'm a little disappointed with that. i too had a mean one years ago but this group (i have 5, i think) seem to just pick on each other. plus the clowns, except one, are bigger than the botias.
 
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