R/0 Units (UV-etc)

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aquaking

Candiru
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Aug 4, 2005
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Just curious if these can hook directly to the aquarium to continuesly filter the water like a filter? Does this eleminate the "need" for a filter? Or should R/O only be used from "water pipes to aquarium?" I've been doing my research and i want my water in my tank to remain as clean as possible. I want to be able to drink out of it if that makes sense... which is essentially good for the fish as well i assume? If anyone have any information on this type of filteration please leave a messege. TAX return right around the corner and i want to invest in my 258gal freshwater setup. Eventually saltwater then a bigger freshwater setup.... I figured i'd ask the experts before asking some R/O unit salesman. Thanks! And TRUST..... the bass are growing quick!! I'll post pix soon but my tiger shovelnose is exploding!!
 
Howdy,

I've never tried it, but here is what I think: The water you get from an RO unit is not suitable for undiluted use in an aquarium. It contains no minerals and leads to death by osmotic pressure. If you have it recirculate your tank water, your fish would basically swim in distilled water ... not good. Furthermore, your tank water contains many more particles than your tap water. An RO filters all those out, but that clogs up your unit real fast. That means increased maintenenace and costs.

As for UV units, there has just been a thread here in the setup forum. Some consider it unnecessary, others think it's detrimental, for a few it's the magic bullet to tank hygiene. Sounds like personal preference more than anything. I've never had one...

aquaking said:
i want my water in my tank to remain as clean as possible. I want to be able to drink out of it if that makes sense...
not quite ... Even when I go canoeing in protected river systems with pristine aquatic life, I wouldn't drink out of it. I always use iodine disinfectant. That's why tap water is chlorinated. There is a difference between water suitable for drinking and water suitable for aquatic life.

I think the key to the water quality you want is good biofiltration.

HarleyK
 
So do you think a good wet/dry bio filter with be an optimum choice then? I've read alot about them and they sound like good filters... i'm using big canister filters right now...
 
What about bed filters... would this work with freshwater? And many of the wet/dry filters have protein skimmers built in.... will this cause a problem for a freshwater setup?
 
Howdy,

I am a canister guy, I've never had anything but Eheim filters. Use good biomedia (e.g. Eheim substrat pro) to fill your canister 2/3.

However, most people with huge bioloads have wet/dry. Just wait for some to chime in here ;)

HarleyK
 
aquaking said:
What about bed filters... would this work with freshwater? And many of the wet/dry filters have protein skimmers built in.... will this cause a problem for a freshwater setup?

WET/DRY is always a great chioce. If it had a built in protein skimmer it wouldn't really change anything, they really only work with salt water as far as I know, it would just be dead space. As for fluidised beds, they are great filters too, they have a lot of filtration power for the amount of room that they take up. The only draw backs to them is you need a pre filter and they depleat the amount of dissolved O2 in the water.

When you combine wet/dry and FBF you have a set up that makes God stand back and say "WHOA, thats cool!" the Wet dry acts as a prefilter for the FBF and puts way more disolved O2 in the water then the FBF takes out and it is cheap and easy to maintain, FBFs are for the most part self cleaning and after they are established it is almost impossible to have an amonia spike, unless you REALLY overstock, but it would stabilise much quicker then other systems.
 
Very interesting.... I guess i'd have to physically go look at these units to see how i would connect them together... Would i hook the FBF into the wet/dry? or just hook both straight to the tank itself?
 
Not a good idea, it would strip the water of everything the fish needed. Go with a sump with 100 micron sock, you could then drop down to a 50 micron etc.
 
A R.O. unit is for treating your tap water, not to be used as an aquarium filter. It is a great idea to use R.O water for aquarium use but it can not be used straight, you must add back to it the needed trace elements & minerals needed for specifically what you are keeping in your aquarium. In many cases, your tap water treated with a good quality dechlorinator will be fine for a large number of frequently kept fish.

As per the U.V. sterilizer. They are a good tool for decreasing parasite out brakes. Thier are espcially usefull on sensitive or problematic fish such as Discus or Saltwater butterflys or tangs. If your keeping fish that are not parasite prone (african cichlids for example) you may not have a need for one.

A wet/dry type filtration system is hard to beat in terms of processing waste. They are very efficient at rapidly breaking down ammonia & nitrite and they are great at de gassing (oxygenating) your water. Very easy to maintain too. I'm not a big fan of canisters because thier ability to process waste is limited because of thier size and they are not conveinient to maintain. A typical system should have it's prefilters rinced every week or so, I doubt canister owners break open thier canister every week to rince out the dirt trap in them.

Fluidized bed filters are effecient biological filter too. THe water coming out of them often is low in disolved oxygen so additional aireation may be needed with thier use. If you wanted to use one in combination with a wet/dry, there are "hang on" models and stand alone models that can be put in or on the side of your sump. Rainbow Lifegaurd makes a nice model for this type of use.

Hope this helps....

Joel
 
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