Welcome!
Catfish can fast a long time, a very long time, if they want to. For a 6"-7", a couple of weeks of fasting is nothing. I have had 8"-10" catfish fast for up to 6 months and cave in, when weaning onto new, non live feeds.
It's hard to say what was wrong, why the fish abstained from feed. There are a lot of factors. Most are described in this stickie thead: https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...ealth-diagnostics-read-before-posting.210102/
You'd be wise for studying it next time you have trouble, and also this stickie should be used to list all the things we need to help you fast and easy, better for you and for your fish.
Just a few things to consider (some was mentoned above):
Lights on a catfish tank are stressful for them, usually. Short-term lighting or dim is better, or not at all, just ambient room light.
Aeration is important. I have read your thread but have no sense of how well the tank is aerated.
I assume your parameters are by a liquid API kit, not sticks and such.
2" RTC is in danger of being eaten by the 6"-7" hybrid.
Adequate water pH buffering is important, that is sufficient KH hardness.
Proper TDS and KH and GH hardness are also important. Good as long as not extreme - extremely soft, or extremely hard.
pH stability is important (again sufficient KH is needed, not 1-2 degrees but 3-4 and more)
Temp swings are stressful to fish.
Less obvious things: pathogen cultures, they come in with new tank mates and a fish gets a bit under the weather working out an immune response to the newly introduced pathogens, microbial and parasitic. It may not feed meanwhile.
Force-feeding? How did you do it, with a syringe? This is entirely stressful and unheard of to do it to a fish that's been fasting only for a week or even two. This procedure is only for the most experienced fish keepers too.
New feed. It takes time for a fish to get hungry enough to try new, unfamiliar types of feed being offered.
After each move, it takes time for fish to relax and get accustomed.
New ornaments, new rearrangements stress the fish. New objects can introduce harmful / stressful substances into the tank water.
The quality of feed is important - a bad, or a bit rotten, or moldy etc. patch of feed can sicken the fish.
TSNxRTC are manmade fish and we get refuse from the food fish farming operations. They often suffer from internal deficiencies and exterior deformities.
What goes on the outside of the tank is also important. People, kids, other pets, e.g. cats, can stress the fish while you are not even looking.
I have only started. The troubleshooting can go on and on. You see how complex it can get. One needs to start working on the biggest and most usual and most obvious issues FIRST and then progress, if need be, from there to less visible, harder to analyze issues to pin point a potential cause.
If one wants to help their fish faster, good photos and videos of the fish, tankmates, the tank always help.
Catfish can fast a long time, a very long time, if they want to. For a 6"-7", a couple of weeks of fasting is nothing. I have had 8"-10" catfish fast for up to 6 months and cave in, when weaning onto new, non live feeds.
It's hard to say what was wrong, why the fish abstained from feed. There are a lot of factors. Most are described in this stickie thead: https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/...ealth-diagnostics-read-before-posting.210102/
You'd be wise for studying it next time you have trouble, and also this stickie should be used to list all the things we need to help you fast and easy, better for you and for your fish.
Just a few things to consider (some was mentoned above):
Lights on a catfish tank are stressful for them, usually. Short-term lighting or dim is better, or not at all, just ambient room light.
Aeration is important. I have read your thread but have no sense of how well the tank is aerated.
I assume your parameters are by a liquid API kit, not sticks and such.
2" RTC is in danger of being eaten by the 6"-7" hybrid.
Adequate water pH buffering is important, that is sufficient KH hardness.
Proper TDS and KH and GH hardness are also important. Good as long as not extreme - extremely soft, or extremely hard.
pH stability is important (again sufficient KH is needed, not 1-2 degrees but 3-4 and more)
Temp swings are stressful to fish.
Less obvious things: pathogen cultures, they come in with new tank mates and a fish gets a bit under the weather working out an immune response to the newly introduced pathogens, microbial and parasitic. It may not feed meanwhile.
Force-feeding? How did you do it, with a syringe? This is entirely stressful and unheard of to do it to a fish that's been fasting only for a week or even two. This procedure is only for the most experienced fish keepers too.
New feed. It takes time for a fish to get hungry enough to try new, unfamiliar types of feed being offered.
After each move, it takes time for fish to relax and get accustomed.
New ornaments, new rearrangements stress the fish. New objects can introduce harmful / stressful substances into the tank water.
The quality of feed is important - a bad, or a bit rotten, or moldy etc. patch of feed can sicken the fish.
TSNxRTC are manmade fish and we get refuse from the food fish farming operations. They often suffer from internal deficiencies and exterior deformities.
What goes on the outside of the tank is also important. People, kids, other pets, e.g. cats, can stress the fish while you are not even looking.
I have only started. The troubleshooting can go on and on. You see how complex it can get. One needs to start working on the biggest and most usual and most obvious issues FIRST and then progress, if need be, from there to less visible, harder to analyze issues to pin point a potential cause.
If one wants to help their fish faster, good photos and videos of the fish, tankmates, the tank always help.
