Repairing 400g acrylic

[ExPeNsIvE HoBbY]

So I have a 400g acrylic aquarium measuring 72"L x 30"W x 48"H with 1" acrylic panels and a 1.25" thick base.

The previous owner decided to either reseal or brace the joints by "welding" 3/4" square acrylic rod into the corners but it was done pretty poorly.

The hardest part has been removing that material so I can properly reseal it. Some of it literally just popped out with little pressure, and some is truly welded in. What's the best way to remove this stuff?

 

[ExPeNsIvE HoBbY]

C'mon guys and gals, I need some replies.

 

[Pharaoh]

If it is welded, then the only way to get it out is to cut it out.

 

[ExPeNsIvE HoBbY]

What method do you recommend using to cut it out without damaging the parent material? Wish it was metal I was dealing with, woulda had it fixed a long time ago. Btw I'm a welder/machinist/fabricator by trade... Lol

 

[Pharaoh]

You could try using an undercut saw. They're used for trimming door jams.

 

[ExPeNsIvE HoBbY]

Ok cool, I'll look into that. Any other ideas questions or comments anyone?

 

[rhite]

You could also try a vibrating saw, ie: Dremel or Rigid. They are fairly inexpensive and you don't run the risk of damaging the tank elsewhere. I know here on the East Coast HD and Lowes sells them for around $120 and they come with a flush cut blade and several others. This eliminates the risk of using a hand flush cut saw and scratching or gauging the tank.

 

[rhite]

Here is the link to Home Depot for the saw; $89.00

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

[Clay]

You are best off using a Dremel multi-max and then smoothing it out with several thousand grit sandpaper. From there, you will have a smooth edge which can be resealed with the rectangular blocks.

 

[ExPeNsIvE HoBbY]

I actually used one of those vibrating saw deals but it didn't cut much, just heated up the material and balled it up.