Resealing a 380 acrylic brand new........... Help pls!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
dragonfish1ca

dragonfish1ca

Candiru
MFK Member
Dec 13, 2005
231
23
48
45
alberta canada
Ok I have a brand new 380 acrylic,,,,,
Shes been water tested and ready to go but i just dont trust the bubbles in the seams!
Ive done all my due dilegence and have bought a gallon of weld on #40 just waiting for it now.....
I will do the tip and pour 3/8" fillets if thats enough?
Do i have to sand if there has never been anything in it? it still had paper when i got it!!! its squeeky clean so im wondering what kind of prep work i need to do?
Also ive never done this before..... anyone know off hand how much to mix to do an 8 ft seam? i dont want to be wastefull and i dont want to spoil the batch or make it craze or bubble?
Ive never worked with acrylic so this will be my cherry so to speak and I really want this tank to keep looking good after im done LOL its for my stingrays.
010_zpss4mtodph.jpg

007_zpshduiy45s.jpg

I dont want to PM wendsday as i assume he is non stop answering questions but any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
dragonfish1ca said:
Ok I have a brand new 380 acrylic,,,,,
Shes been water tested and ready to go but i just dont trust the bubbles in the seams!
Ive done all my due dilegence and have bought a gallon of weld on #40 just waiting for it now.....
I will do the tip and pour 3/8" fillets if thats enough?
Do i have to sand if there has never been anything in it? it still had paper when i got it!!! its squeeky clean so im wondering what kind of prep work i need to do?
Also ive never done this before..... anyone know off hand how much to mix to do an 8 ft seam? i dont want to be wastefull and i dont want to spoil the batch or make it craze or bubble?
Ive never worked with acrylic so this will be my cherry so to speak and I really want this tank to keep looking good after im done LOL its for my stingrays.
010_zpss4mtodph.jpg

007_zpshduiy45s.jpg

I dont want to PM wendsday as i assume he is non stop answering questions but any advice would be greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

20150603_184912.jpg

20150607_125226.jpg
 
If it's brand new as you say why attempt to remedy it yourself? Go back to the manufacturer/supplier and voice your concerns with them. Any DIY attempt will void the guarantee should you have a problem in the future.
 
The tank was built 3 years ago and has been sitting in a shop since from a guy no longer building them. His rep is excellent but i plan to house all my black rays in there and i dont want to take any chances. there is no warrenty and ide rather just double up my insurance with my own hands and know she will hold down the road.
 
Seams look a bit sketchy but ive seen/own worse lol...good news is uve covered the bases by ordering some #40. Fairly easy to tip and pour it, just takes a few days, then a week to cure...The #40 will melt right over any #16...used it to repair old work in #16 many times. Looks like there cant be much in there to cover over so minimal sanding will suffice if any. The #40 will turn any sanding marks back to clear so a light scuffing of ur glue area never hurts. Clean the acrylic with nail polish remover and or alcohol and ur good to go. Id stick with the 3/8" bevel size to prevent major crazing from the glue heating up and since ur tank looks pretty clean. Seams arent popping off or anything u just want to throw in another bond for assurance and a bit of strength. My guess for 3/8" bevel/pour for an 8' seam would be around 200ml or less... i always throw down 1/2"-1" pours so maybe try 100ml on the back wall first and see what happens lol... its possible to pour right over the bevel if its not enough a couple days later but 100-200ml should be the ballpark ur lookin at. U really cant hurt anything other than "cosmetics" by using #40... as u mention with crazing from the heat but u should b ok with ur bevel size and newer material. Ive found old yellowed acrylic crazes the most with #40....or thin material 1/4-1/2"...3/4"-1" takes the heat pretty well. Use the back bottom seam to get ur feet wet and the rest will go smooth...hardest part is mixing the first batch. Im sure i forgot something lol...but hope this helps. Shoot me any more ?'s u have ill get back to ya when i get a chance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dragonfish1ca
Forgot to mention take ur time with the process...maybe 1-3 seams/pours a day to keep the material cool... tanks ive crazed the most with #40 are the ones i rushed and heated up too much pouring batches every hour, older bowed tanks craze alot so thats a plus ur hasent been filled really. Other than that...wear a decent respirator, even a rag tied around ur face in a pinch and have good ventilation, escape to fresh air asap lol.....good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: dragonfish1ca
Fantastic bro thank you very much!!!! If i mix 200 ml at a time should i expect it to go yellow? I dont want to re seam it over and over if i can do a half inch seam at a time i would much rather..... i just have no idea what im working with? I can do measured cups as well as a scale if there is decent directions just want to make sure im not laying in a pass that will look horrid. Im a welder by trade so im trying to convert my thinking lol
 
Also specific alchohol? Like isopropanol or just over the counter nail polish remover? And how do i apply it so it dont eat the viewing pane? Thats what im most concerned about is scuffing or wrecking the front viewing area
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
MonsterFishKeepers.com
Top Bottom