Return plumbing

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TBout86

Black Skirt Tetra
MFK Member
May 8, 2021
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question on check valve options

I’m drilling my tank for 2 - 3/4” bulkheads for my two returns.
I was planning on using all soft tube, and use a barbed T or Y to split from return pump to both returns.
what are my choices for check valves?
am I better to go with hard plumbing and install a normal check valve?

let me know what your thoughts are? Photos are nice.
 
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question on check valve options

I’m drilling my tank for 2 - 3/4” bulkheads for my two returns.
I was planning on using all soft tube, and use a barbed T or Y to split from return pump to both returns.
what are my choices for check valves?
am I better to go with hard plumbing and install a normal check valve?

let me know what your thoughts are? Photos are nice.

They do make check valves that u can “plug n play” with like the rest of ur barbed fittings and nylon tube. Personally id keep ur returns above the water line or drill a small hole in them/in tank to break any possible siphon. Ive had check valves last years… ive also had new ones last only a few months before failure during power outtages. Can still use them if u want too, just dont depend on them fully.
 
Ok, so arch the loc line slightly so the top is near top of water?
I couldn’t find any check valves for 3/4” braided line.
 
Ok, so arch the loc line slightly so the top is near top of water?
I couldn’t find any check valves for 3/4” braided line.

Yes that would work to break the siphon quicker when the power goes out 🤙💀… you dont want a large amt. of water ending up back in the sump. Depends on how large ur sump is also… just play with it during the initial set up cutting ur power and seeing what u can get away with.
 
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Just echoing what wednesday is saying - don't ever depend on a check valve to prevent your sump from flooding. Design your system to have as little water as possible that siphons back into the sump. And make sure the sump is large enough to handle all of that water plus some extra for a safety factor.
 
Just curious, why drill for return lines? Is it because you want to surpass splash noise?
If returns are above the water line, they will not back siphon, so no need for check valves.
And if above the water line, they will create turbulence that helps to promote gas exchange.
 
Just curious, why drill for return lines? Is it because you want to surpass splash noise?
If returns are above the water line, they will not back siphon, so no need for check valves.
And if above the water line, they will create turbulence that helps to promote gas exchange.

I prefer the cleanliness of having drilled returns apples to over the top. Which is why I’m drilling to install a Fiji cube overflow as well.
this is to go with an aqueon 75 gallon tank I got for 50% off Petco sale.
building a furniture grade plywood stand right now.
 
Make sure you measure carefully for where to drill with that Fiji cube overflow - I had to trim off a section of the top trim on a 29 gallon tank in order to get the water level high enough for my liking. Otherwise the water level was going to be half inch or more below the bottom of the trim. I have one of their tanks right now (57g) that came drilled and the water level in that tank is 1.5" below the top of the glass which is a lot especially because the tank is only 16" tall to begin with. I basically lose 10% of the volume of the tank because they drilled the holes for the overflow too damn low.
 
I prefer the cleanliness of having drilled returns apples to over the top. Which is why I’m drilling to install a Fiji cube overflow as well.
this is to go with an aqueon 75 gallon tank I got for 50% off Petco sale.
building a furniture grade plywood stand right now.

You might want to check that tank VERY well before drilling...I'm almost positive aqueon uses tempered glass on their 75s. It's possible some of the panels may not be though.

As a reminder about your idea concerning returns...you will still need to drill a pinhole in the return line inside the display tank right below the waterline if you wish it to break the siphon. Even though your returns enter the tank above the water, the water will still siphon up and out of the return until it finds air (usually at the nozzle).
 
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You might want to check that tank VERY well before drilling...I'm almost positive aqueon uses tempered glass on their 75s. It's possible some of the panels may not be though.

As a reminder about your idea concerning returns...you will still need to drill a pinhole in the return line inside the display tank right below the waterline if you wish it to break the siphon. Even though your returns enter the tank above the water, the water will still siphon up and out of the return until it finds air (usually at the nozzle).
I was going to say the same thing. I have 2 aqueons one the short sides were not tempered the other one all sides are. I had another 1 also that I assumed was not tempered on the side and I didn't check. It was tempered, I tried drilling it the same as the other and found out that the hard way.
 
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