I need help with my rodi water unit. I have well water and probably high co2 levels I got less then 100 gallons of water (probably 70 gallons) and 40% of my di is gone how can I save my di?
RODI water help DI is eaten alive
- Thread starter Nate Dogg
- Start date
Need a lil' more to go on than that -
could be water pressure issue but need more to go on like how old is the unit, is the TFS membrane seated properly and once again how old - another issue could be the discharge tubing is attached to the DI are you sure you set it up correctly
could be water pressure issue but need more to go on like how old is the unit, is the TFS membrane seated properly and once again how old - another issue could be the discharge tubing is attached to the DI are you sure you set it up correctly
Your well water probably has excessive carbon dioxide in it which depletes you DI resin. The solution would be to degas the water first, but that can be expensive. Here is a good read on RO/DI systems: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.php
Before we jump to the CO2 issue, let's start with some basic information.
What is your water pressure at the membrane?
What is the TDS of your tap water
What is the TDS of your RO water
What is the gpd rating on your membrane?
Russ
What is your water pressure at the membrane?
What is the TDS of your tap water
What is the TDS of your RO water
What is the gpd rating on your membrane?
Russ
pressure is low I know that I think 40-45 (mom wont let me turn up the water pressure pipes are 25 years old)
TDS from well is 250-275
tds from rodi 0 sometimes 1 but that could be the container
GPD is 75gpd with the 75gpd boster for a total of 150gpd
Are you using warm or cold water? Temp is important should be between 70-80 degrees for all medias to work properly
Resins, carbons, +TFC are at peek efficiency - 77f or 26c @ 100psi for Saltwater Reef eco systems mind you 10ppm is high for reefs zero is optimal, where as 50ppm is still optimal for drinking water.
Peak drinking water production is a whole different animal and calculated for cold water - @ 45psi the water temp should be 34 degrees or 1c + @ 59F or 15.5c your psi should be 70 to achieve 50ppm or less of TDS in your drinking water.
The De ionizing resin cleans up what slips past the r/o - @ 10ppm the microfilter should be changed this should drop you back down to near zero prior to the DI. the di will then cleanup the 1-2 ppm - seems to me too much crap is slipping thru and temp may very well be part of your problem. How many gallons per day -if your getting high ratings @77 degrees 100psi @ a speed of 150gpd than you may need to reduce the gpd or slow the system down the waters moving thru the system too fast to reduce TDS to zero. Mines rated @ 100gpd I try to use luke warm water approx. 77 degrees @ close to 100psi - everything works as it should and has for over 2 years mind you it's not exactly perfect just close enuff.
Peak drinking water production is a whole different animal and calculated for cold water - @ 45psi the water temp should be 34 degrees or 1c + @ 59F or 15.5c your psi should be 70 to achieve 50ppm or less of TDS in your drinking water.
The De ionizing resin cleans up what slips past the r/o - @ 10ppm the microfilter should be changed this should drop you back down to near zero prior to the DI. the di will then cleanup the 1-2 ppm - seems to me too much crap is slipping thru and temp may very well be part of your problem. How many gallons per day -if your getting high ratings @77 degrees 100psi @ a speed of 150gpd than you may need to reduce the gpd or slow the system down the waters moving thru the system too fast to reduce TDS to zero. Mines rated @ 100gpd I try to use luke warm water approx. 77 degrees @ close to 100psi - everything works as it should and has for over 2 years mind you it's not exactly perfect just close enuff.