Running a Second Tank to Keep Display Tank Clear of Equipment

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Guitarman1

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
May 9, 2010
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United States
I am new to this hobby, so I could drive you crazy with questions. I also tend to be wordy, so I apologize in advance for the likely length of this.

We’ve had a quite nice 90 gallon aquarium in storage for several years (it had belonged to my oldest son, who was not focused enough to responsibly keep the fish), and my wife recently decided she’d like to see it put to use, so we’ve moved it downstairs to our family room. I have done a lot of study in a short period of time since we’ve come to this decision, and I am quite taken by the African cichlids, so I plan to set the aquarium up for the purpose of keeping that type of fish.

My current question(s) focus on a device that struck me as quite useful in terms of keeping the fish healthy and avoiding having the display aquarium laden with all sorts of unsightly equipment, such as heaters. One author even reported, beyond that, that some of the cichlids get aggressive enough that they go out of their way to destroy things, including heaters, for instance, so that would be another good reason to have means to heat the water outside of the display tank, for instance.

Specifically, while I was reading about sumps, part of the discussion revolved around using the output end of the sump tank for heating, testing, and adding chemicals to the water. While I’ve come to the decision I don’t need a sump, it seems it would be useful for several good reasons to have a second, smaller tank cycling water with the display aquarium for those purposes and for increasing the effective water volume of the system for the benefit of the fish. Several issues compel me to consider this idea seriously, but I have some questions about the physics of it that leave me a bit nervous about finding water all over the floor, and I’d like some advice regarding how to set it up to minimize the likelihood of that happening.

In fact, I am dumbfounded to read about folks keeping the sump under their main aquarium. It strikes me (I must presume mistakenly, given that people do it!) that in that arrangement, siphoning should naturally result in the content of the main aquarium overhead running down into the sump and spilling over its walls to soak the floor around it, emptying a considerable part of the volume of the overhead tank. Perhaps, when the filter pump is running, it can exceed the siphon flow due to gravity, but what happens in the event of a power failure?

I have thought, instead, to have a second tank positioned so the water level is set at the same height as in the first, so that in the event of a power failure, the intentional siphoning from the bigger tank into the smaller that is driven by the filter pump drawing water from the smaller tank and pumping it to the bigger will stop the second a power failure shuts the filter pump down. If I am correct, I should never have fear of water running over, except perhaps in the unlikely event the siphon hose becomes significantly blocked while the pump is running. (Of course, having the second tank at that height will make working in it easier than if it were underneath the larger, as well, but that factor does not relate to my questions—it is just another benefit of the arrangement).

My questions boil down to simple physics, I imagine, and I suspect that is a science that must be on the minds of many who keep fish, so I hope someone can help me out with this and help set my mind at ease. Here are my two closely related questions:

First, am I correct to think that if the tanks are positioned so that the water level is the same in both, I do not have to worry about the content of one tank siphoning into the other, regardless of whether the pump is running or not?

Second, once the tanks are arranged in that fashion, does it matter at what level the opposite ends of the siphon tube rest in the two tanks (provided of course that they remain well within the depths of the water)? I ask this because I would like to put the intake end of the siphon hose in the larger tank at a greater depth than the output end in the smaller tank could possibly go (i.e., because it would have to go lower in the bigger tank than the full depth of the smaller tank).

I created an image that depicts the arrangement and the context of my questions, having misunderstood that I would be able to add attachments. Oh, well. I hope this is clear. Thanks in advance for consideration and any assistance with these questions.

Rob Redden
 
:welcome: glad you took this hobby you'll have LOTS of fun!!
 
Water is not siphoned into the sump. It gets to the sump via overflow.

Do some research on overflows, as it will give a better understanding then I have the energy to give.
 
Guitarman1;4129399; said:
I am new to this hobby, so I could drive you crazy with questions. I also tend to be wordy, so I apologize in advance for the likely length of this.

We’ve had a quite nice 90 gallon aquarium in storage for several years (it had belonged to my oldest son, who was not focused enough to responsibly keep the fish), and my wife recently decided she’d like to see it put to use, so we’ve moved it downstairs to our family room. I have done a lot of study in a short period of time since we’ve come to this decision, and I am quite taken by the African cichlids, so I plan to set the aquarium up for the purpose of keeping that type of fish.

My current question(s) focus on a device that struck me as quite useful in terms of keeping the fish healthy and avoiding having the display aquarium laden with all sorts of unsightly equipment, such as heaters. One author even reported, beyond that, that some of the cichlids get aggressive enough that they go out of their way to destroy things, including heaters, for instance, so that would be another good reason to have means to heat the water outside of the display tank, for instance.

Specifically, while I was reading about sumps, part of the discussion revolved around using the output end of the sump tank for heating, testing, and adding chemicals to the water. While I’ve come to the decision I don’t need a sump, it seems it would be useful for several good reasons to have a second, smaller tank cycling water with the display aquarium for those purposes and for increasing the effective water volume of the system for the benefit of the fish. Several issues compel me to consider this idea seriously, but I have some questions about the physics of it that leave me a bit nervous about finding water all over the floor, and I’d like some advice regarding how to set it up to minimize the likelihood of that happening.

In fact, I am dumbfounded to read about folks keeping the sump under their main aquarium. It strikes me (I must presume mistakenly, given that people do it!) that in that arrangement, siphoning should naturally result in the content of the main aquarium overhead running down into the sump and spilling over its walls to soak the floor around it, emptying a considerable part of the volume of the overhead tank. Perhaps, when the filter pump is running, it can exceed the siphon flow due to gravity, but what happens in the event of a power failure?

I have thought, instead, to have a second tank positioned so the water level is set at the same height as in the first, so that in the event of a power failure, the intentional siphoning from the bigger tank into the smaller that is driven by the filter pump drawing water from the smaller tank and pumping it to the bigger will stop the second a power failure shuts the filter pump down. If I am correct, I should never have fear of water running over, except perhaps in the unlikely event the siphon hose becomes significantly blocked while the pump is running. (Of course, having the second tank at that height will make working in it easier than if it were underneath the larger, as well, but that factor does not relate to my questions—it is just another benefit of the arrangement).

My questions boil down to simple physics, I imagine, and I suspect that is a science that must be on the minds of many who keep fish, so I hope someone can help me out with this and help set my mind at ease. Here are my two closely related questions:

First, am I correct to think that if the tanks are positioned so that the water level is the same in both, I do not have to worry about the content of one tank siphoning into the other, regardless of whether the pump is running or not?

Second, once the tanks are arranged in that fashion, does it matter at what level the opposite ends of the siphon tube rest in the two tanks (provided of course that they remain well within the depths of the water)? I ask this because I would like to put the intake end of the siphon hose in the larger tank at a greater depth than the output end in the smaller tank could possibly go (i.e., because it would have to go lower in the bigger tank than the full depth of the smaller tank).

I created an image that depicts the arrangement and the context of my questions, having misunderstood that I would be able to add attachments. Oh, well. I hope this is clear. Thanks in advance for consideration and any assistance with these questions.

Rob Redden

First off i'll try as best i can to answer your question concerning why some people keep their sumps below their tank and how that works. i personaly run a wet/dry sump as the sole filter for my 150 gallon tank (165 gallons if you include sump volume) and i think they are great for the reaosns you listed (place for heaters, extra volume as well as in the case of wet/dry sumpsl; superb biological filtration and decent mechanical filtration)

Sumps use overflows. (or holes drilled in the back of the tank to overflow the water) Basically an overflow is a device that uses a (nearly) unbreakable siphon (works that the siphon never fully clears itself of water it empties just enough to stop flowing but water remains in it's bottom loops) which can immediately restart as soon as water starts flowing into it again. (look at the sticky in the DIY section about the DIY overflow it will have a very informative diagram that explains everything)


Basically if the pump shuts off, the overflow will drain down until it cannot drain anymore (usualy a couple of inches). The sump will be made to be able to accomodate this extra volume without a spill. But some water remains in two of the overflows bottom loops (look at the diy siphon diagram as it's difficult to explain but easy to understand) as soon as water starts raising in the tank again (pump is back on) the new water pushes the remaining water out of the loops which creates enough suction to restart the siphon again. the water level in the tank will raise to the point where the siphon is pulling the same amount of water as the pump pushes (it will always have some air mixed in with the water running through this to allow the flow rates (of water) to equalize).

Becuase of this the sump can be much lower than the main tank.

Alot of people say overflows do not use siphons and unfortunately they are misinformed it is indeed a siphon but a specialy designed one that is self-restarting.

And no the water levels do not have to be equal in either but you will have to decide on a running level (in your sump) as any extra water will end up in the sump becuase the main tank must remain at certain water level in order for the overflow to drain enough water to match the pump. This level must be carefully chosen to make sure your pump does not run dry and to make sure that in the event of a power outage you do not have any large spills.

Hope that answered some of your questions.

if you have any really indepth questions to ask give Chompers a PM (he's the guy who did the post on the DIY overflow) he's the expert on this stuff.
 
Welcome to MFK.

I'm not sure how your idea would work?:confused:

IMHO:
The best way to keep a clean (as in free of equipment) tank would be with a sump system with heater in the sump.
Second best would be a canister filter with built in heater or running an in line heater.
 
First off, your interpretation of a typical sump is not correct. A typical sump is not "siphon fed"... it is fed by an overflow. Usually this is creted by drilling a hole in the bottom of a tank and securing a vertical pipe and when the water level 'opverflows' the top of the pipe is falls intot he sump. This form of 'overflow' cannot drain the tank any lower than the top of the vertical pipe.

There is a "siphon" overflow system, but it's not simply a siphon to the sump. It utilizes an external box that is drilled in the bottom as described aboev and connected to the main tank by a siphon.


But...

Yes what you are describing is possible... With proper planning... without proper planning it's a dissaster waiting to happen...


If you have two bodies of water with the exact same water level... and you create a 'siphon' between them... the siphon will not flow...

If you pump water from tank #1 to tank #2... the water level of tank #2 will increase and the water level of tank #1 will decrease...

The larger the diameter of the siphon, or the more siphons used, the less the difference will be... The greter the difference in water levels between the tanks the faster the siphon will flow and vise versa.


So... if tank #1 is your display tank... and tank #2 is your "sump" at the same level...

You will want the rim of the "sump" slightly higher than the rim of the display tank... As the water level in the sump (tank #2) will be slightly higher than in the display tank (tank #1).

When the pump is turned off, both water levels will balance. Therefore this requires leaving the display tank slightly lower than the main tank.

You will want to use multiple siphons...

you will want your siphons to be able to handle much more flow than the pump is creating (error on the side of caution)...

You will want a "self starting siphon" or a "fail proof siphon" such as the design illustrated below.


While I have used this approach to create a fry tank plumbed to my main tank... I would not advise it for the purpose you are considering...

The main reason I would not advise it is because it will require keepign the water level on the display tank a little low.

Using a typical sump will also prevent evaporation from lowering the display tank, it will simply lower the water level in the sump only.


Welcome to the hobby. Filtration/plumbing can be as simple or as complicated as you amke it. I personally love the complicated stuff, although I confess it's not always practical.


Self Starting or Fail Proof Siphon

failproofsiphon.jpg



External Overflow Concept

HOBOverflow.jpg



My tank using the concept you asked abotu and I designed:

Conceptual illustration

BreedingStand03.jpg


The real thing

IMG_0193.jpg
 
I have a 15 gallon sump on a 55 gallon reef tank and an external overflow. I will admit that if the power shuts off, the overflow will not drain the tank farther than what the sump can handle. I have a piece of tape to mark my max water level in the sump.

However, if the power goes out or I shut off them return pump during maintenance, water will siphon back down through my return line and flood my sump. I just have to pull it above the water line for a second to kill the siphon, but thats also hard to do if your not home.

The solution would be a battery backup I guess.

Also I think the reason why most people keep their sumps under the tanks is because you can hide it this way in a stand, thus hiding all the unsightly things like heaters and whatnot
 
therevolution;4129771; said:
I have a 15 gallon sump on a 55 gallon reef tank and an external overflow. I will admit that if the power shuts off, the overflow will not drain the tank farther than what the sump can handle. I have a piece of tape to mark my max water level in the sump.

However, if the power goes out or I shut off them return pump during maintenance, water will siphon back down through my return line and flood my sump. I just have to pull it above the water line for a second to kill the siphon, but thats also hard to do if your not home.

The solution would be a battery backup I guess.

Also I think the reason why most people keep their sumps under the tanks is because you can hide it this way in a stand, thus hiding all the unsightly things like heaters and whatnot


You need to put a hole in your return line homie.
 
i was thinking about doing this for adding chemicals etc. and for putting my heater/thermometer etc.
 
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