Scrubbies in a canister, good or bad?
- Thread starter Ramesh
- Start date
Bacteria will grow on just about anything... sure bacteria will grow on scrubbies in a cansiter...
Ceramic noodle type bio media has a greater surface area and when clean will have the potential to host more...
Bio Balls and Pot Scrubbies are the most efficient in a wet dry situation because their structure allows air to circulate within them. Ceramic noodles have too small of pores to allow sufficient air flow internally where the bulk of the surface area is.
But, although a canister is not the "ideal" environment for maximum utilization of Pot Scrubbies, they will still work...
Ceramic noodle type bio media has a greater surface area and when clean will have the potential to host more...
Bio Balls and Pot Scrubbies are the most efficient in a wet dry situation because their structure allows air to circulate within them. Ceramic noodles have too small of pores to allow sufficient air flow internally where the bulk of the surface area is.
But, although a canister is not the "ideal" environment for maximum utilization of Pot Scrubbies, they will still work...
Yes, that's exactly what I thought Nutcase. I have 2 Eheim 2260's to fill with media and I am try to fill them with the best media at the cheapest price.
I have bought 20L of Matrix recently at a very cheap price and also have 25L of Aquaclay.
I am fine for Bio but for Mech I might buy 5kg of cheap ceramic rings and use them as Mech with some Jap mating cut to size to seperate the Mech layer from the Bio.
I am try to stay away from expensive Eheim media if I can but I think my media set up should work well.
Any thoughts??
I have bought 20L of Matrix recently at a very cheap price and also have 25L of Aquaclay.
I am fine for Bio but for Mech I might buy 5kg of cheap ceramic rings and use them as Mech with some Jap mating cut to size to seperate the Mech layer from the Bio.
I am try to stay away from expensive Eheim media if I can but I think my media set up should work well.
Any thoughts??
hello from indiana.
just recently purchased a used 55g and the filter it came with was a canister. actually cascade 700. anyone wants to offer tips or comparision of the canister, opposed to the hob which i ve always used. i figured out how to use it. iwould like to know if this is better filtration than hob, as i will be upgrading soon and would like to get the best for my buck. thanks
just recently purchased a used 55g and the filter it came with was a canister. actually cascade 700. anyone wants to offer tips or comparision of the canister, opposed to the hob which i ve always used. i figured out how to use it. iwould like to know if this is better filtration than hob, as i will be upgrading soon and would like to get the best for my buck. thanks
sunny14;4174708; said:
Hey Sunny, welcome to MonsterFishKeepers...
That sonds like a great topic for a thread but it's a bit off topic for this thread. Feel free to start a new thread with this as a topic and I'm sure quite a few people will chime in to share their thoughts.
loureyes;4174673; said:
While they will work for either... it's best to seperate the two functionally...
Ideally, we do not want to mess with our bio media often at all. As cleaning bio media will inevitably remove some of the bacteria living in/on it.
But we have to clean mechanical media, and the more often we do so the better. Leaving solid waste in the mechanical media to rot will unnecessarily increase the rate at which nitrates, phosphates, etc build up increasing the amount of water changes needed.
We often hear of people who need to do 50% weekly water changes while they brag abotu not needing to clean their filters more than twice a year. Cleaning those same filters every 2~4 weeks would allow those same people to cut their water changes in half... or keep the same water change routine and have much much cleaner water consistently.