Just as the topic says I just need to know If and how much water to change during a fishless cycle. Thank you to anyone who can help.
Should I change water while cycling without fish
- Thread starter Finthusiast
- Start date
If you don't have wildlife in the tank, no need to change the water UNLESS your ammonia or nitrite level is too high.
Can you post your test results for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? Looking for numbers, not test strip results.
Can you post your test results for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? Looking for numbers, not test strip results.
Hi thanks for the reply here are the results:
- Ammonia - between 0.25 and 0.5 ppm
- Nitrite - between 2 and 5 ppm
- Nitrate - at least 5 ppm
As far as I do with my setups when running a fishless cycle mate, as long as you keep that water moving I've always had positive results from not changing my waters during this cycle. Best of luck mate
Changing water at this point would be defeating the purpose of fish less cycling.
That ammonia and nitrite are feeding and helping your population of beneficial bacteria to grow.
When ammonia and nitrite are zero, and you add fish, that's when you want to start diluting the rising nitrate by doing water changes.
That ammonia and nitrite are feeding and helping your population of beneficial bacteria to grow.
When ammonia and nitrite are zero, and you add fish, that's when you want to start diluting the rising nitrate by doing water changes.
Alright thanks for sharing 
should I remove these plants that may be dying? (they may just be going through a shock period) Or does that help along with the cycling?
should I remove these plants that may be dying? (they may just be going through a shock period) Or does that help along with the cycling?
Might want to give the plants a chance to melt, but possibly come back.
I found with collecting wild plants its a bit of a krapp shoot, and there is a bit of a shock period where some make it after a melt down, and some don't, especially when using artificial light, and if they were taken from an area of full sun.
Because I use natural light (partial sun) some of the plants that must have need full sun didn't make it. Hydrocotyle (Pennywort), didn't make it, Hydrilla did.
Wild Iponema at first, grew like a weed, but eventually didn't make it.
The
LFS Vallisneria is doing great.
Hydrilla left, Val right.
I found with collecting wild plants its a bit of a krapp shoot, and there is a bit of a shock period where some make it after a melt down, and some don't, especially when using artificial light, and if they were taken from an area of full sun.
Because I use natural light (partial sun) some of the plants that must have need full sun didn't make it. Hydrocotyle (Pennywort), didn't make it, Hydrilla did.
Wild Iponema at first, grew like a weed, but eventually didn't make it.
The
LFS Vallisneria is doing great.
Hydrilla left, Val right.
Alright I will gove them some time. What about the nitrogen cycle, do dying plants effect the cycle in a good or bad way or not at all?
The melt back on your plants selected shouldn't cause issues to your cycle mate. Must say Duanes, it's looking pretty lush in that pic mate I'm jealous.
I'd leave them to it and don't be tempted to overdose on the seachem if that's your product of choice. Im Supprised pennywart didn't take. I'm useless with plants and I've had good success with penny in the past.
Just make sure you remove any debris and floating plant detritus from the water don't be tempted to leave it in for a bit. Best of luck with it
I'd leave them to it and don't be tempted to overdose on the seachem if that's your product of choice. Im Supprised pennywart didn't take. I'm useless with plants and I've had good success with penny in the past.
Just make sure you remove any debris and floating plant detritus from the water don't be tempted to leave it in for a bit. Best of luck with it