Should I upgrade my filtration?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
N

Nepherael

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
May 12, 2012
91
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Warsaw, Indiana
I'm a pretty new fish owner and I got a 50g second hand with a cascade 700 canister filter. I don't have the specs on it since it didn't come with a booklet or anything but I think it pumps 180gph?

If I'm stocking my tank with many small fish (mollies, guppies, glofish, angelfish) should I upgrade? I've been looking into wet/dry sump setups but I really don't have the money for that (I'm considering building one or having someone else build who might give me a deal).

What do you think? Is the cascade 700 enough? I'm looking into upgrading down the road so it would be great if I got a different filter to have something that could handle a 75g.
 
I also actually have quite a lot of questions but I'm combing through this forum and other resources so I don't ask redundant questions. Things like how often I need to clean my filter media, if my filter media is good and has enough surface area, eh I could go on all day.
 
Nepherael said:
I'm a pretty new fish owner and I got a 50g second hand with a cascade 700 canister filter. I don't have the specs on it since it didn't come with a booklet or anything but I think it pumps 180gph?

If I'm stocking my tank with many small fish (mollies, guppies, glofish, angelfish) should I upgrade? I've been looking into wet/dry sump setups but I really don't have the money for that (I'm considering building one or having someone else build who might give me a deal).

What do you think? Is the cascade 700 enough? I'm looking into upgrading down the road so it would be great if I got a different filter to have something that could handle a 75g.
Click to expand...

That canister should be fine given smaller fish, as for media i prefer only mechanical (filter pads) and bio media (ceramic rings that house bb). Id pick up a roll of filter pads at ur lfs and cut them to size (easy and economical) and buy 2 boxes of bio max ceramic media (fluval bio max, api chem stars, seachem matrix etc). I normally rinse my filter pads 1 time every 3-4 weeks with hot tap and replace them after 2 months alltogether, rinse bio media in tank water (just shake tray in water). If its a new tank it has to cycle, so add only a few small fish at first, after a week change 30-40% water and feed a little less then usual (1 time/day) after 2-3 weeks ur ammonia/nitrite levels will climb (causes harm and stress to fish) so at week 3 change 40-50% of water and at 4 weeks another change and eventually youll have both beneficial bacterias that convert toxic ammonia (fish/oranic waste) to nitrites and then nitrites to nitrAtes which are removed through water changes and or plants! A good way to cycle properly is to buy a test kit to ensure stable levels of water chemistry, a popular kit is API fw liquid test kit. Be patient and after a month you can fully stock the tank w/o harming fish. Make sure to have a heater (78° ideal) and a constant temp is beneficial, STRESS can cause many illneses in fish so be sure to keep everything constant! Nls, omega one and hikari make great food and seachem prime is awesone tap water conditioner (neccesary for wc)

Id add a power head or circulator to stir up bottom of tank to increase flow, also bubbles are beneficial for oxygen and surface aggittation, and driftwood makes great decor!

Goodluck





#1 S. Vettel
 
Thank you very much. That was very very helpful and informative. I have seen power heads and circulatory mentioned but I didn't really know what they were.

My cascade filter has a long tube with holes that spits the water back in the tank and I have it aimed straight out. Would you recommend aiming it down to circulate water from top to bottom or still recommend getting a power head or circulator?
 
Theoretically the filter should handle (min) the full volume every hour, so you should be fine with what you have.
Be sure your tank/system/ecosystem is fully matured/cycled- leave it running with water for a couple of weeks before you put fish in (check the thread on cycling). Maybe you can put a guppy or two in during this to accelerate the process, but nothing more.
Also, don't be afraid of plants- they're lovely and they do a nice job enhancing water quality. Snails can also be helpful. I try not to think "aquarium", but rather think "ecosystem", and it works out pretty well.
A
PS; mollies like salt in their water- go with platies (sp?).
 
Yeah I made some very big mistakes at the start of this (even though I did quite a bit of reading). Had no idea about a fish less cycle and many other things. It contributed to the loss of a couple but we are getting there with the cycle (ammonia is zero, nitrite is high). I use aquarium salt regularly and once I can afford it I will have a second tank setup with the right conditions for the fish I have.

Thats why I'm very interested in a wet/dry setup. I was hoping to find a thriving trade community on here as I'm sure I could work something out with someone.

Theres a really nice tank locally that is 75g and comes completely setup (heater, air, substrate, more) with a wet/dry system for less that $200. I've been drooling over it even if I couldn't set it up right away
 
Nepherael said:
Thank you very much. That was very very helpful and informative. I have seen power heads and circulatory mentioned but I didn't really know what they were.

My cascade filter has a long tube with holes that spits the water back in the tank and I have it aimed straight out. Would you recommend aiming it down to circulate water from top to bottom or still recommend getting a power head or circulator?
Click to expand...

That tube is called a "SPRAY BAR" and is not necessary in my opinion it somewhat slows down flow rate (gallons per hour) does it have a different attatchment? Like a nozzle that sprays it down or just take it off as long as it doesnt splash or anything.

A powerhead is just a pump (spihon motor impeller but no filtering) that sprays water to create more flow and oxygenation

A circulator looks and works like a fan and creates way more flow but sometimes to much, mine is 1000gph and i have it aiming at the surface for aggitation! You can pick each up for around 30-40$

Here is a good informative article about water chemistry, cycling a tank and a link for powerhead and circulator.

http://www.piranha-fury.com/pfury/i...ium-chemistry/page__pid__2670637#entry2670637

http://www.piranha-fury.com/pfury/i...7-cycling-101/page__pid__2625502#entry2625502

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C5JYV6

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet-sup...ads/aquarium-power-heads&ea_a=Brand:AquaClear

Fishkeeping is a great hobby and at first everyone gets addicted and usually overstocks their tanks quickly often seeing fish they like and buying w/o researching, which can result in loss of fish, so take your time and consider your options of stock!



#1 S. Vettel
 
Especially since my fish keep breeding. I have glofish babies, Molly babies, soon to have guppy babies. (the babies are in a separate 10g tank and in the breeder net in the pic)

Im surprised they've bred and been so interactive during this whole cycling process
 
Yeah we are done buying for the moment and very focused on making sure we take care of our current fish. The spray bar (lol couldn't remember at the time) can come off and shouldn't splash. I will get a power head or circulator and take the spray bar off I think. I'm glad I've finally had an extended dialogue on here. It really makes a difference in my confidence level and knowledge.
 
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