I was just doing my weekly water change on a 29 gallon i have. It has 7 tiger barbs and a 2 inch pleco. i noticed one of the barbs body was completely bloated out and clear bubbles we covering his scales. I will get the parameters when i am done cleaning the tanks but it has been up and running for almost a year and none of the other fish show any signs of sickness. Any ideas.
Skin Bubbleing?
- Thread starter mindgame
- Start date
Just finished a 75% water change. He is swimming around like normal but he really look gross. I tried to get a picture but he is to quick and small for my ****ty camera. I also noticed he has a few spots that look like ich but nothing has gone into that tank for 4 months and all other fish look fine. Ill get parameters in a few hours but i just did the waterchange so they are probably fine.
Without a photo, it's anyone's guess at this point, but from what you described, and seeing as how the rest of the inhabitants seem to be doing fine, and no other's are suffering from any form of infection, it sounds to me like your barb may be afflicted with Gas Bubble Disease.
Gas Bubble Disease is caused by a sudden dramatic change in gas pressure in the aquarium. This can happen by changing too much water at one time or by adding cold water to the fish tank (cold water, un-aerated contains higher levels of natural gases which release as water warms or is circulated). Gas bubbles form in the fins and skin of the fish (as the concentrate is higher than can be metabolically absorbed). The bubbles look like blisters and are very easy to see. The skin will crackle if you run your finger across it. If not treated in time, gas bubbles can move into the bloodstream and will kill the fish. Treatment is pretty simple, but not always effective, depending on the overall health of the animal prior to the affliction, as well as the severity of the GBD, in addition to threat of secondary infections. Best thing for now, is to add alot of aeration to the aquarium (Surface disturbance is always best), so re-situated existing powerheads, or add some in to create a heavy break in the water's surface layers. You can use some bubble wands too, but avoid airstones because they won't give you the amount you need. But don't go overboard and create a potential new problem of over saturation. Be smart about it. Raise the temp slowly, to end at about 5 degrees warmer than before to allow gasses in the waters to break down and dissapate. Lights should be left off to minimize stress in the animal, but if you have a moonlight, you can use that to allow minimal lighting for observation. If you see alot of bubbles that have already popped (will appear as "dimples" in the skin, or like a deflated ball if the epithelial tissues haven't torn away), consider adding a general antibiotic to guard against secondary infection, you could use any broad spectrum antibiotic. This isn't a viral or bacterial infection, so there is really no need for segregation unless your animal is displaying sighs of discomfort and stress, or the other tankmates are picking on him. However, should he develop a secondary infection, you will want to move him as not to endanger the others.
A picture really would help solidify my assumptions, but without one, this is the best I can do to help you out. Keep us informed.
Gas Bubble Disease is caused by a sudden dramatic change in gas pressure in the aquarium. This can happen by changing too much water at one time or by adding cold water to the fish tank (cold water, un-aerated contains higher levels of natural gases which release as water warms or is circulated). Gas bubbles form in the fins and skin of the fish (as the concentrate is higher than can be metabolically absorbed). The bubbles look like blisters and are very easy to see. The skin will crackle if you run your finger across it. If not treated in time, gas bubbles can move into the bloodstream and will kill the fish. Treatment is pretty simple, but not always effective, depending on the overall health of the animal prior to the affliction, as well as the severity of the GBD, in addition to threat of secondary infections. Best thing for now, is to add alot of aeration to the aquarium (Surface disturbance is always best), so re-situated existing powerheads, or add some in to create a heavy break in the water's surface layers. You can use some bubble wands too, but avoid airstones because they won't give you the amount you need. But don't go overboard and create a potential new problem of over saturation. Be smart about it. Raise the temp slowly, to end at about 5 degrees warmer than before to allow gasses in the waters to break down and dissapate. Lights should be left off to minimize stress in the animal, but if you have a moonlight, you can use that to allow minimal lighting for observation. If you see alot of bubbles that have already popped (will appear as "dimples" in the skin, or like a deflated ball if the epithelial tissues haven't torn away), consider adding a general antibiotic to guard against secondary infection, you could use any broad spectrum antibiotic. This isn't a viral or bacterial infection, so there is really no need for segregation unless your animal is displaying sighs of discomfort and stress, or the other tankmates are picking on him. However, should he develop a secondary infection, you will want to move him as not to endanger the others.
A picture really would help solidify my assumptions, but without one, this is the best I can do to help you out. Keep us informed.
I just got back from my local LFS and thats what the owner of the shop thought it was. I just treated with a antibiotic he gave me and i am going to start raising the temp. I have 2 HOB filters running and i am going to lower the water level to provide more aeration (i hope thats enough cause i dont have anything else). Ill keep ya posted. Thanks for the help.